Sump Pump to Dry Well

[Solid]

Hello Forum!

It's been a while! I've had several other home projects (non-plumbing related) that have kept me very busy. One major update was excavating the entire rear foundation of my home, ripping out the original bulkhead entrance and replacing with a precast unit! It came out great but whoa, what a mess! Anyway, I digress…

I currently discharge my sump pump out to the front lawn, but the water has destroyed my grass and is unsightly to say the least. So, I'm going to do a NDS Flo-Well Dry Well to put things underground. From the house, I'm planning on running a the required 10' out to the dry well, so I picked up some pipe and fittings from the local Lowes. This is where I have some concern (I did this because of cost).

I picked up a section of 4" ADS 3000 Triple Wall/Smoothwall HDPE solid pipe to make the underground run to the dry well (it will be: 4” tee (overflow/freeze protection) > long sweep 90 > 10’ solid ADS 4” pipe > dry well). This pipe works with the much cheaper/thinner PVC fittings, but I'm not sure if I can/should glue them? The pipe has a plastic fitting on one end to connect multiple pieces of pipe (bell and spigot?), but I’m only going to use the single 10’ piece, so I don’t have to bother with that (or a coupling). For some reason I swear I read that you shouldn’t use the standard solvent weld glue, but I’m not sure if I should use all-purpose glue for the fittings, or just leave them? I’m also assuming that it is OK to bury this pipe in a non-traffic area (no vehicle traffic or foot traffic even other than lawn mowing). Finally, I had to figure out a way to connect the 1 ½” schedule 40 discharge pipe to the 4” PVC fittings. I came up with something that I think will work, but it isn’t very pretty (I will post a picture of the contraption this evening). So, in conclusion:

Should I glue the fittings to the ADS pipe?
Is it OK to bury the ADS pipe?
Should I just use Schedule 40 for everything and return all this stuff?

Thanks in advance everyone!

 

[frodo]

...............

 

[Solid]

Frodo,

#1,2,3 and 4 are exactly how I have it set up now, but I question #5. I don't want to run a straight piece of 1 1/2" to the dry well without some sort of emergency spillway of sorts. If the dry well became full or blocked up for some reason, the pump would probably explode in my basement causing major damage!

The Basement System guys install these, but you can't buy them anywhere!

Here's another one that I might be able to buy if I call?

A lot of people make one using a 4" (or 3") Tee, and I thought of that myself, I just can't figure out a way to cover the outlet! I need to keep rodents and debris out!

I'm really just looking for the best solution for piping #5 in your drawing, and I think I will just end up using the more expensive schedule 40. Gluing HDPE to PVC seems impossible according to the internet.

 

[frodo]

you have a check valve in your line in the basement.

are you afraid of it ?

a check valve will let the water pump out, but will not let it back in

it has a small door that only swings one way , so it cant "blow up your basement"


you do not need that air gap fitting,

 

[frodo]

lol,,,,if the yard flooded, and you had to use a boat to go to work.

the water would not back up into that pipe in till the water got ABOVE the pipe coming out of the house.

THEN the water would rush into the pipe, DOWN into the basement.

and be stopped by the check valve from flooding the basement

 

[Solid]

you do not need that air gap fitting

lol! I love the boat!

In the example you posted, what if the dry well is completely full and can hold no more water, or the line leading to the dry well is blocked/frozen? What happens when the pump runs to push water into a line that is blocked?

 

[frodo]

the high water alarm on the pit rings and you get out of bed to find out why

do what ever it takes to fix the situation.

you do not continue to pump water out of your basement into the foundation of the house

no water should be allowed with in 10' of your foundation, this includes gutters

 

[KULTULZ]

Frodo,

#1,2,3 and 4 are exactly how I have it set up now, but I question #5. I don't want to run a straight piece of 1 1/2" to the dry well without some sort of emergency spillway of sorts. If the dry well became full or blocked up for some reason, the pump would probably explode in my basement causing major damage!

The Basement System guys install these, but you can't buy them anywhere!

Here's another one that I might be able to buy if I call?

Either of those (same principle) are used to allow flow-by in case of freezing temp and/or snow cover outside. They are both available (I will give source if desired).

It (they) will allow emergency discharge to the ground in case of an emergency.

 

[frodo]

if it were my house. I would rather have a tee at the tank instead of a 90, for the overflow

 

[djmayhill]

The way I used to do it back north would be to have two pumps in pit at different levels ( like sitting on brick) have your primary pump go out and discharge into the dry well. If you had a rainy time where the dry well did not keep up or pipe froze you then have your secondary pump pump out the water. The second pipe I usually did not have under ground. But it's your home you can pipe it under if you want

 

[Solid]

Either of those (same principle) are used to allow flow-by in case of freezing temp and/or snow cover outside. They are both available (I will give source if desired).

It (they) will allow emergency discharge to the ground in case of an emergency.

Thanks bud! If you don't mind, could you point me to one of those contraptions? Thanks!

Frodo - forgive me, but I still don't understand how your solution would work if the discharge was blocked/frozen?

Djmayhill - that's something to think about, thanks!

Thanks to all for the advice. Love this forum!

 

[KULTULZ]

-IceGuard™ Anti-freezing Sump Pump Discharge-

-Freeze Relief® Frozen Discharge Line Protection-

Ideally, the discharge line should exit the basement wall underground and not be exposed to ambient air temperature.