Solid waste ejector pump piping

[meesterbig]

Hello.

My basement floor waste plumbing is 8' below street level, which requires a solid waste ejector pump. This drain line includes an in-floor collector tank a pump (2" pipe outlet), followed by a check valve, then some sort of 2" plastic ball valve. The 2" pipe then proceeds upward from the ball valve and ties into the horizontal 3" main in the ceiling.

My question concerns this 2" ball valve. This thing is jammed so it cannot be opened or closed, and has been this way for the 12 years I have owned his home. My (new) pump behaves very erratically and I have come to suspect waste becomes stuck in or around this valve. I have decided to remove it.

Do I really need this in-line ball valve if I have the check valve to hold back the remaining waste in the line whenever I need to change replace the pump?

thanx in advance for the help.

 

[phishfood]

I can tell you that International Plumbing Code, the code that is in use in my area, requires a full port valve above the check valve. This is to allow you to replace or repair the check valve should it ever malfunction (they do). The check valve is needed to stop the waste from dumping back into the sump when the pump shuts off.

I would remove the plastic ball valve and replace it with a quality brass full port ball valve.

 

[meesterbig]

I can tell you that International Plumbing Code, the code that is in use in my area, requires a full port valve above the check valve. This is to allow you to replace or repair the check valve should it ever malfunction (they do). The check valve is needed to stop the waste from dumping back into the sump when the pump shuts off.

I would remove the plastic ball valve and replace it with a quality brass full port ball valve.

Thank-you phish, I was afraid someone would say that. Have you ever heard of a malfunctioning valve - such as the one I have described - wreaking havoc on the pump operation?

 

[phishfood]

I am not all that experienced with sump systems, as they are all but non existent here in Florida.

I tend to think that if the valve did not cause a problem with your old pump, it shouldn't cause a problem with your new pump.

Hopefully someone with more hands on knowledge with sumps and ejector pumps will check in and give you a more definitive answer before too long.

 

[meesterbig]

I am not all that experienced with sump systems, as they are all but non existent here in Florida.

I tend to think that if the valve did not cause a problem with your old pump, it shouldn't cause a problem with your new pump.

Hopefully someone with more hands on knowledge with sumps and ejector pumps will check in and give you a more definitive answer before too long.

Thanx again phish, I hope someone else does weigh in on this as I am kind of at my wits end on this thing.

Have a great day!

 

[phishfood]

johnjh20 just signed in, so stay tuned. He is a goldmine when it comes to plumbing knowledge.

 

[meesterbig]

johnjh20 just signed in, so stay tuned. He is a goldmine when it comes to plumbing knowledge.

perfect, kindly steer him my way!

 

[johnjh2o]

Sounds like there is a restriction in the ball valve and it should be replaced or removed. In most areas there not required. But I will say they are very useful when you have to pull the pump. Like fish said a full port brass ball valve would be the better choice. Most PVC ball valves are not full port and over time they become very hard to turn.

John

Thanks fish but I think you have it just about covered.

 

[meesterbig]

Sounds like there is a restriction in the ball valve and it should be replaced or removed. In most areas there not required. But I will say they are very useful when you have to pull the pump. Like fish said a full port brass ball valve would be the better choice. Most PVC ball valves are not full port and over time they become very hard to turn.

John

Thanks fish but I think you have it just about covered.

Thanx for the reply, John.

The pumps seems to run fine for several days to a few weeks; then suddenly the cycle time begins to grow from it's 5-10 second cycle to well over a minute, for no apparent reason.

Given the horsepower of this thing, I cannot fathom it sometimes pumping ever so slowly, unless somehow the flow becomes blocked, then unblocked, then blocked?

I have tried everything else I can think of, including drilling a 3/16" hole in the pipe just above the pump (per manufacturer Zoeller's instructions) to help prevent the occasional vapor locking.

I agree the valve would come in very handy for pump replacement if I did not want to rely on the check valve alone.

If I choose a 2" full port brass valve - say, from Lowe's - I would also need a pair of 2" ABS adapters, a piece of 2" pipe and some glue. What sort of sealant should I use on the adapter threads and valve?

 

[johnjh2o]

Is the tank vented? If it is then I would remove or replace the ball valve. As far as what to use on the adapters T tape would be fine. Not sure if you will find any full port ball valves at the big box store. To tell if a valve is full port, when looking through it open the opening in the valve should be the same size as the valve itself with no restriction from the ball.

John

 

[meesterbig]

Is the tank vented? If it is then I would remove or replace the ball valve. As far as what to use on the adapters T tape would be fine. Not sure if you will find any full port ball valves at the big box store. To tell if a valve is full port, when looking through it open the opening in the valve should be the same size as the valve itself with no restriction from the ball.

John

Yes, the tank is fully vented. And here is what I found at Lowes:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_79586-33599...brass+ball+valve+&pl=1&currentURL=&facetInfo=

Thanx again, John.

 

[citygirl16]

My daughter is in the process of buying her first home. When she had the house inspected she was told that there is a smell coming from the ejector pit. The owners are refusing to fix this problem. Personally I know nothing about ejector pits so I am trying to find out as much as I can. Can this be a very costly repair and a big problem or is it a minor problem. We are going to hire a plumber to look at it but I want some information about it first and also find out what she is getting into before purchasing this home. Thank you

 

[johnjh2o]

It's hard to make a determination without seeing it. But in most cases it's just a matter of sealing the lid. That is assuming it's piped correctly. A picture would help. Also starting a new thread will get more attention to your specific problem.
John