Replacing a boiler drain valve with a leaky handle

wildlegend · Feb 8, 2015

Our washing machine supply uses 1/4-turn boiler drain valves as its shutoffs, which we use every time we use the machine. They are approximately 5 years old. Recently the hot water valve started leaking right underneath the red handle (picture attached). It's kind of a slow drip, about once every 10-12 seconds.

I tried tightening the hex head screw holding the handle in place, but it doesn't seem to have any effect, and I don't want to force it and break the pipe.

I have a new Mueller boiler drain (picture attached) I picked up at the local big box store. I believe I simply need to:
1) shutoff the main
2) remove the braided hose from the washing machine end
3) remove the old valve with a wrench, using vice grips to hold the female end
4) apply Teflon tape to the inlet threads on the new valve, clockwise
5) insert and tighten the new valve, finishing it off with the wrench and vice-grips again
6) re-apply the braided hose to the outlet end, or replace with a new hose.

Can anyone validate my approach? Is there anything I should watch out for? What is the expected lifetime of these valves? I'm a little surprised the old one started leaking already.

Matt30 · Feb 8, 2015

You're going to want to release the pressure off the line before you take the old valve off. Otherwise you get an unwanted shower.

Make sure you use two wrenches, not vice grips. With vice grips you risk deforming the female end. It's only red brass, not steel.

wildlegend · Feb 8, 2015

Thanks Matt30.

I planned on shutting off the water at the main, opening the faulty valve, and then slowly removing the braided hose. I don't have any other faucets in between or after to help drain any water in the line. If you have a better suggestion, please let me know.

I didn't think about the risk of using vice grips, thanks for pointing that out. I'll use two wrenches.

Is there any harm if I let this drip for a day or two? We have a large snowstorm starting and I don't want to risk being without water for an extended period during a storm, so I may wait to try this repair.

Matt30 · Feb 8, 2015

Unless something goes horribly wrong, it should take you only 10 minutes to make the repair. I'm a fan of applying both Teflon and pipe dope to the threads.

frodo · Feb 8, 2015

sounds like you are using the valve a lot. If it was me, I would use a higher quality valve. si I would not be switching them out every 5 years.

take a look at a ball valve. http://screencast.com/t/EhBxvfEhTXD0

http://screencast.com/t/2CK3fz0ahL

wildlegend · Feb 12, 2015

I took your suggestion and went to a local plumbing supply store and bought what seemed like a better quality valve, a Watts model. Handle seemed sturdier.

As you can see from the attached photo, I got it installed! As suggested on this thread, it was not that hard. The hardest part was actually waiting for the hot water supply line to drain: I inferred that I needed to shut off the valve from my hot water heater too, after which the water in the line filled two small buckets before it was emptied. Took at least a good 5 minutes to drain. Total time of the job was probably 20 minutes.

I didn't get any pipe dope (supply store was out), but the teflon tape and new valve worked great. Switched out both braided hoses (I noticed the cold water hose had a drip) and testing went well. I did not switch out the cold water valve, but it is working for now.

Thanks to everyone who posted a response to help me, I appreciate it.

I did have one follow-up question: I have one upstairs bathroom sink that still gurgles as if there is air in the line. All my other fixtures exhibited this right after I turned the water back on, but it quickly dissipated. Is there any way to get the air out of the line? Is it doing harm?