Removing Pipe from Burned-Out Connectors

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skeezix

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When I removed my old water heater I was not able to disassemble the sweated connections on the inlet pipe. I heated the connectors with my Bernzomatic and used water pump pliers to twist/wiggle the connectors until they separated on two of the connections but not all of them. I could melt the solder but no amount of wiggling let me pull the rest of the connections apart. Eventually the connectors and pipe became red hot. and at that point I gave up and just sawed them off. There was no water in the pipe either. These particular connectors were installed 12 years ago. I have had no problems removing connectors from new pipe.

I now have a tiny leak coming from one of the connectors that I did not remove the pipe from. It leaks one drop every minute or so. Please see the below image.

20200315 Cold Water Connection with Leak 640 px.JPG
 
You need to use flux and make sure all of the water is out of the pipe. Then make sure you clean and sand everything before you put back together. Its not ideal to do it that way. Just cut out and install new
 
If the heated joint doesn't separate by twisting, etc., just tap it off with a hammer, against the elbow.
Clean thoroughly and resolder.
 
Well, I got it done. I removed each of the fittings in the pipe, ruining some of them. I was able to save the pipe coming out of the ell next to the wall. Then I just rebuilt from that pipe stub to the vertical inlet pipe. Used a new valve 'cause I figgered I might have heated up the existing valve so much that it would leak. Got everything soldered and now, 24 hours later, no leaks. :thumbsup: Thanks to CT18 and Diehard, I used both of your suggestions!
 
Just curious, but why did you solder the copper lines to the tank rather than using flexible braided lines for easy replacement when this tank goes kaput?
 
Reason #1: I'm 76 years old and the new heater has a 12-year warranty. I doubt that I'll care very much, or even be around when it comes time to replace it.

Reason #2: I have an expansion tank that sits directly above the inlet pipe. I didn't want to install a short (VERY short) length of flex tubing between that expansion tank and the inlet union, and I didn't want to rig some kind of support for the tank.
 
Just because you have a 12 year warranty does not mean the tank will be fine for 12 years.
It could fail tmrw.
It would be under warranty, and you would have to do new solder connections.

And sometimes, so I have been told by supply house guys, tanks with a 6, 9, or 12 year warranty are actually the same tank, but you are charged more for the extra years, basically you are just buying an insurance policy.
 

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