Removal of water supply line from broken valve

[atatime]

Hello. I bought a new fridge. I'll put the specs below. Home Depot is going to remove my old fridge, which has a water supply line. I recently turned off the valve to start prepping the fridge for removal, but I over tightened it and I heard a crack. I don't know the exact extent to which it's damaged, but I don't trust it anymore and want to replace the valve.

The value is turned all the way to the right now. There is a visible crack on the oval-shaped handle that you turn to shut it off (or open it), but I don't see any water leak.

First thing's first. I have to remove the water supply line so that they can take the old fridge away. Would you please watch the video below, tell me whether you think it's safe to remove the water supply, and give me some advice on how to do that. If I can't get you to watch the video (which I really need you to do), I will include a picture too. One big question is whether I can even take it off without shutting off the main and draining the water lines (however you do that). Again, I don't detect a leak right now.

The second issue is less pressing but still important. I need some advice on what type of valve I have and how to replace it. The valve has different joints so I need to know exactly what to get. I also need to know if shutting of the main is enough to work on it or if I am going to have to have the water lines drained (however you do that). For what it's worth, I live in a high-rise condo building.

I am a newbie so I could really use some links to applicable Youtube videos if you could.

Thank you and happy New Year!!!

New fridge: GE21.9 cu. ft. Top Freezer Refrigerator in Fingerprint Resistant Stainless Steel, Garage Ready
Model: GTS22KYNRFS

 

[Geofd]

That could be a 1/2" compression by 1/4" compression valve or 3/8" by 1/4" compression valve one or the other can't tell the size coming from the wall yes you would have to shut off the main and drain to below were your working , I don't know what cracked but you could start there,do you have a shut off valve/meter for your condo????? If not you would have to get maintenance involved, sounds like just the plastic handle cracked but to be safe change the valv
It's called an angle valve

 

[atatime]

My understanding is that maintenance has to be involved in draining the lines, but the only thing I can tell you about my condo is that I have a main that shuts off the water to my condo.

Without shutting anything off, is it safe to disconnect the water supply line. They are delivering a new fridge tomorrow. Also, what should I cap it with?

 

[Geofd]

If maintenance has to be involved let them
Change the valve it will take just a few minutes just have that style valve on hand
When they come you will need a 1/4" compression cap and ferrel to cap off the end going to the fridge,also looks like a cpvc (plastic) line coming out of the wall if you break that you will have bigger issues

 

[atatime]

Home Depot is coming tomorrow. This is a huge condo building with 36 floors. It's unlikely that they would be able to drain the lines before Home Depot came. The most pressing issue is whether I can disconnect the fridge without shutting anything off and keep a 1/4" compression cap and ferrule before actually replacing the valve.

 

[atatime]

What about this video? Will this fix work for me?

 

[havasu]

I would not recommend replacing the "innerds" on a pressurized line. I just can't understand why a 36 floor building would not have isolation valves so repairs can be made properly?

 

[Geofd]

If you don't have an individual isolation valve
They will have to shut down a group of risers
Cancel the new fridge, get the valve squared away then call them back if you asking all of these questions it means you don't have the experience to do this save yourself some grief pay someone or have maintenance do it

 

[Geofd]

I would not recommend replacing the "innerds" on a pressurized line. I just can't understand why a 36 floor building would not have isolation valves so repairs can be made properly?

Just think of the labor and cost of the valves if the did it individually we run into this all the time it's a major inconvenience for our students when we have to do a riser shut down it's also scheduling nightmare

 

[havasu]

My brother in law is head of maintenance at some of the largest high rises in all California state owned buildings. He has a crew of 15, so when there are water leaks, the entire crew puts out a one month notice for the occupants, then has his crew work all week on a graveyard shift, repairing all leaking water issues, then moves on. He himself said if the state allowed him to isolate sections, they could save millions in overtime and there would not be any leaks. But the state refuses to allow isolation valves. This does not seem very prudent to me.

 

[atatime]

I got the water line off, and I don't detect any leaks. Please see attached photo. To my untrained mind at least, this means that the valve is fine and I just need to replace the handle. I'm also interested in capping that opening in case water drips out of there eventually. If you have step by step instructions on how to do these two jobs, I would appreciate it. Thanks!

 

[MicEd69]

My brother in law is head of maintenance at some of the largest high rises in all California state owned buildings. He has a crew of 15, so when there are water leaks, the entire crew puts out a one month notice for the occupants, then has his crew work all week on a graveyard shift, repairing all leaking water issues, then moves on. He himself said if the state allowed him to isolate sections, they could save millions in overtime and there would not be any leaks. But the state refuses to allow isolation valves. This does not seem very prudent to me.

atatime said, "the only thing I can tell you about my condo is that I have a main that shuts off the water to my condo." in #3.
The "crack" you heard was the plastic handle. That angle stop valve is made of brass which won't make a crack when the only force it is subjected to is through a plastic handle. The original installer used an assortment of fitting to connect the hose. The valve is HIGHLY LIKELY to be closed now, so you can remove all those fittings and cap the outlet of the angle stop if you don't have a need for water to the new refrigerator. Or you can pull the refrigerator out and remove the hose connection to the refrigerator and cap/plug it.

As you have CPVC supply piping, you do need to be careful if you remove the connection at the valve. Just be sure to hold the valve body with a wrench or vise grip or similar when unscrewing that connection so as not to impart and force to the CPVC piping. You should use a small crescent wrench or the appropriately sized open-end wrench on the compression nut and not a pipe wrench. Or you can disassemble one of the other connections in that assembly using two wrenches to keep all stresses off the CPVC. You just need the appropriately sized plugs/caps to seal off the open connection.