please help! shower valve not centered

[shawn03]

Hi,

I've hired someone to remove a jacuzzi tub and replace it with a standard 32" tub and shower combo. I came home yesterday and the valve was installed nowhere close to center - it is about 11.5" in when I would have thought it would be 16" in. Seems like I would have to stand sideways!

Is anyone able to take a look and see if there is a reason for this? Can it be changed to be centered? My contractor is unresponsive on the weekend and I am concerned about this. Really appreciate it! I'm on the 9th floor of a 1970 condo tower if helpful.

 

[frodo]

if nothing is in the way, it should be centered


have you paid him yet?

that will get his attention, everytime

 

[shawn03]

Thanks frodo - I paid about half upfront. There's just that copper pipe to the right, the galvanized steel one, and then to the right of that a metal stud (the only one not shown in the pic). Wouldn't seem like any of that would prevent the valve being moved over 4 inches, but maybe I'm wrong? I'm not that familiar with plumbing and the art of the possible

 

[SHR]

What does your tub/shower look like? Often a valve centered on the tub design is not in the center of the wall.

 

[frodo]

let me rephrase my answer, it should be centered on the drain, which is typically center of the fixture
if that is the type of fixture you have

 

[havasu]

It looks like it was done as a convenient way for the guy to install it without having to deal with the galvanized pipe.

 

[phishfood]

I can think of a couple of different ways to get it closer to the larger copper pipe and the galvanized.

The big question is what the dimension is to the center of drain and overflow of the new bathtub. That is where the valve should be roughed in.

 

[shawn03]

I really appreciate everyone's help. The bathtub drain is exactly halfway in the bathtub - 16" in. I agree he must have just not wanted to deal with the galvenized pipe. However, it is something that can be dealt with right? I just want to make sure I have my facts straight when I talk to my contractor (who hired the plumber) Monday morning (so he doesn't just try telling me it can't be done). Here's another picture showing the full area. Thanks again guys.

 

[phishfood]

The galvanized pipe probably can't be moved, it looks to be a riser that supplies all of the floors. The larger copper pipe probably can be offset closer to the galvanized in the area of the valve. A street 90 could be used in the side of the valve so that the supply piping doesn't stick out so far beside the valve.

 

[frodo]

FIFY , was giving me a headache,

phishfood is 100% correct, show this to the plumber
tell him to post on here. LOL.

electrolysis / dissimilar metals, the copper needs to be wrapped where it touches metal

 

[shawn03]

Thanks again everyone! Okay last question... Could the large copper pipe be moved all the way over to the other / left side of the valve? That would seem to free up the most amount space

 

[havasu]

Sure, anything is possible, provided time/money is no object.

 

[Mr_David]

Did you get 16" from the actual tub or a spec sheet. Most of the standard tubs I install have a 14" to 14 -1/2" center on the drain.

No Concerns about the copper connected to the Galvanized steel pipe??
I know many dislike the use of dielectric unions but an IPS threaded ball valve would make a better transition from Galv to copper instead of that short section of copper between the Galv and valve.

Edit ^^ I see it's not copper but a brass nipple. The 1st steel fitting connected to brass will be the first to fail so if that 90 and close nipple in the tee are brass that tee would be the 1st fitting to fall. If it was steel to the valve, then it would be a lot easier to replace the nipple and 90 than it would to replace the tee.. That will take several years so nothing to loose sleep over, YET. If the 90 & close nipple are galv stl then it should be okay.


Thanks FRODO for flippin' the picture.

Here's another concern!!
The larger flat surface of the Black rough-in cover should be flush with the Finished wall NOT with the studs.
Most valves that I have installed, the copper pipe dropping down for the tub filler is pretty close the front of the stud, NOT 1/2" off the back wall.


What else can I ramble on about??

 

[shawn03]

You're right - just checked the spec sheet and the drain is at 15.5" not 16". Still though, it's about 4 inches off right now.

Sounds like it's going to need to be a combination of a street 90 and either moving the large copper pipe closer to the galvanized steel one, or moving it all the way to the left if possible.


Failing that, maybe I can get a ceiling mounted showerhead, so at least that can be centered.

 

[frodo]

here is my thought. he accepted the job.to install a tub/shower valve. no matter what he has to move, or do. to put that valve where it should be, he should do.
if he did not put enough money in his bid, that is to bad so sad
he will learn next time to check the job out.

he was hired to install the tub/shower valve. so install it correctly

does anyone agree with me? or am i being a "meanie" jmho

 

[shawn03]

Appreciate the support guys. Interestingly, before Friday, there was no copper at all - just galvenized steel and angle stops for the jacuzzi tub that was there. My building paid to install copper pipes so that my plumber could install a valve.

I just spoke with my contractor and he said if I wanted the large copper pipe moved (to make more room for the valve) that would be the building's responsibility.

Does that sound right to anyone? I'm not sure why the building would pay for it, but then again I'm not sure why they paid to install some copper pipes in the first place (maybe it's a code issue?)

 

[phishfood]

Galvanized and copper are both allowed as water pipe under the code in my area.

The question you are asking is probably beyond the plumbing area, and more related to contract language/state law.