Please help critique my install

[jayv]

Hi,

I had a leak in my cast iron sewer pipe in my basement and I removed some of the old pipe/floor drain and replaced it with PVC. I did this rather quick to restore services to my house - please let me know if I messed up in any way. Thanks!

 

[johnjh2o]

The floor drain needs to be vented or removed. The san tee at the base of the stack needs to be a Y and instead of using a fernco coupling a banded coupling would have been a better choice.
http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/shielded-couplings/proflex-couplings

 

[jayv]

Thanks for the help.

10-4 on the change in coupler.

The problem with using a Y at the base is the I don't have enough clearance between the cast iron pipe and the vertical stack. If I install the Y and a 45 degree to get from vertical to horizontal, I don't have enough room for fitting before I run into cast iron. Not sure if I am describing correctly. Any other options here?

Thanks

 

[SHR]

You may have to cut back the cast iron line in order to install the wye instead of the sani-tee. Always use a wye or tee-wye combo when transitioning from vertical to horizontal. You can use a carbide edge sawzall blade to cut through the cast iron line. You will get a relatively straight cut without having to rent a specialty tool that will not do a better job.

The rubber coupling you used is perfect for under concrete. They are designed for use exactly like you used it and recommended by the strict Minnesota code I work with. Interestingly, a very knowledgeable inspector I work with makes everyone remove a underground stainless banded coupling and replace with the rubber.

Per the plumbing code here "Floor drain fixture branches which are less than 25 feet in length
and connect to a vented main or branch do not require an individual vent." The floor drain does NOT have to be vented but any drain pipe under concrete has to be a minimum 2". Remove the 1 1/2" PVC and replace with a 2" drain and pipe.

And when you replace these pipes make sure this time you use primer on your joints.

 

[Mr_David]

use a street wye and 45 to make a combo

Water flowing down that stack can back wash into the floor drain or even suck the water seal out. Just my opinion.

Also notice you have a union p-trap. use an all glue trap. 2"

 

[jayv]

SHR and Mr. David:

Thanks for your replies and help. I am going to try a street wye and 45 or a combo without a hub and see if they fit in my space. I really do not want to deal with cutting back the cast iron - it might not look like it, but it is already under the wall and if something went wrong in cutting it back, I would be looking at excavation, etc. I just don't want the risk.

If the street wye or combo don't fit, I think I will eliminate the floor drain and just use a long sweep 90 - I know that fits.

If the trap stays, I think I will keep it unvented - I have watched it for a couple of days and even with all water on, it does not suction out the trap water at all, nor does it seem to have any issue with taking all the water I can throw into it and not creating suction. It is 2" pvc on the trap.

Regarding the coupler - lots of different opinions on this, but I think I will just stay with what I have if possible - it was given to me by the plumber who punched a hole through my CI when he was snaking the drain - he said that is what folks around here use.

Thanks for all the help - comments and opinions welcome!

 

[SHR]

A trap is absolutely necessary for a floor drain! Follow the advise you have received and you will have a good installation. Never eliminate the trap!

 

[jayv]

SHR - sorry, I mis-spoke. It should have read if the Wye or Combo don't fit in the current space, I will eliminate the floor drain entirely. I edited the post to be clear.

Thanks for all your help today!

 

[ExtraMilePlumbing]

Another option is use a long sweep combo instead of the upside down sanitary tee.and use two 22s to align youre stack