Need advice on changing water heater and Boiler

[montek]

hello to all. I have a pretty old Dunkirk Boiler- I believe I have steam heat from a gas boiler. My model number is 235AAW007112AADA and the serial number is 3685V01918. I know you are going to say it is really old- BUT it has
been tried and true for all these years. On occasion, we get knocking in the pipes and when that happens I drain the water and lower the sight glass level of the sight glass until the red cut-off light goes on. Then I refill the sight glass to the manufacturer's level. Just recently the kitchen radiator gave out a huge metal knock and we saw water pouring from the vari-valve(air vent). We had a plumber come over and he changed the vent and flushed and cleaned out the boiler. Here is what was done---------1/29/24- cleaned gauge glass, pigtail, calibrated pressure troll, and tested lwco. The system is running. The water level and boiler keep
fluctuating to the point where it shuts off the low-water cut-off. After several minutes the water level rises back and satisfies low-water
cut off turning the boiler back on. This repeatedly happens. Turned on the basement hot water loop and everything seems to be functioning
properly. Recommending to the customer first to balance the system with new vents and to locate the main vent in the basement. Need to look in the soffit
as it seems that the return line starts about halfway across the basement. That is where we stand now-- But after all, this was done- The kitchen radiator with the NEW air vent is NOT heating up. But my other concern is that the NEW water level on the boiler is ONLY about 1" from the bottom of the sight glass. And thus when the heat goes ON it brings the water level below the sight glass and the cut-off switch is engaged and the boiler shuts off after being on only for about 5 to 6 minutes and stays off for about 4 minutes then starts all over again until the home is heated to where the thermostat was set to. But the water in the sight glass is SO much lower than the manufacturer recommends. And as mentioned the water level was Always the NORMAL height. Why is this the new setting that the plumber seems to have created? And why is the kitchen radiator NOT heating up anymore- does it have anything to do with that loud knock we heard BEFORE the plumber installed the new air vent and how do we address this? Please advise- we are trying to prevent a complete overhaul due to costs. Also, the plumber mentioned that the whole system is PIPED wrong. I am confused it has been working well till last week - how can the system be piped wrong? I am totally confused. Lastly - he said they do not use copper piping anymore- because it expands etc and that everyone uses Black pipe now. Again - I asked around and I was told that is NOT the problem and that the reason copper is not used now is because of the costs. So what and who am I to be advised by and what should a homeowner do? I have been on a site called heatinghelp.com and they mostly recommend that I change the boiler since it is 39 years old and has never been maintained. Leave it to Old America to make things that were NOT disposable. My water heater is the same - it is from 1986 and I was told 10 years ago by a plumber to get rid of it quickly and here we are 10 years later and it is still around. Amazing. But am I playing with fire? That is the question. Is it WAY beyond its years? I am just so emotionally attached to this wonderful amazing piece that has NEVER been flushed and never gave us ANY smelly water OR dirty water of lack of HOT water. AMAZING. I fear with a new one that I will see these problems.? I am trying to avoid these problems- so does anyone recommend the best brand of water heater for longevity and workmanship and quality? What I have now is a Rheem Fiberglass that is my piece of GOLD. Also, the plumber we are going to hire is a steam specialist and he will change the pipes to Black Pipe and repitch them and he will be giving us a New Yorker gas-fired steam boiler, model # CGS50. What do you guys think and let me know if you think that getting these items new for my home at the age of 67 is what I should do?
Lastly, I was on a site on YouTube called the GRUMPY PLUMBER from a master plumber for 48 years, etc and he said that water heaters do NOT need to be flushed and that it is a waste of money and it will not extend the life of the water heater? I kind of agree because just think about mine- never maintained or flushed and it is 39 years old? This plumber from this YouTube channel recommends something called an ON DEmand Water heater- that it lasts longer and is more reliable than a tanked water heater. Is this true?

 

[TomFOhio]

You are not getting enough water to the boiler. Something must be plugged up. Does the light on the green box come
on when it calls for heat? Maybe that control is bad and not filling like it should. The water in the site glass has to come up
to the level line. If that copper piping has been in there all these years I wouldn't replace it myself. If I was you, the next time water
heaters are on sale buy one and just have it there for when you need it. Try another plumber and see why your not getting
water to it. Your not going to get heat to the radiators if the boiler can't make steam. Let us know how things turn out for you.
Good luck.............

 

[breplum]

I love how shiny the top of your Rheem water heater still appears !
You may be a record holder on tank water heater age.
There are only I think three mfrs of tank WH in USA, with different labels for the branding.
We say tankless WH outlast tank WH based on average life of tank WH being 10 years...so good tankless like Navien or Noritz with descaling done routinely (depending on your water hardness) and a scale inhibitor, might last 20 years.
But tankless are more finicky with plenty of electronics/electro mechanical to potentially go bad. Whereas, tank water heaters today, with modern flammability inhibition features (FIVR) and unjustly pricey thermocouple array are still simpler.
We used to buy WHs back when yours was a baby for $100 flat. Now, my eyes pop seeing prices. AND, the justified push away from gas to heat pump WHs will make you gulp.

 

[Ludington]

A hp water heater would be nice, but there just way to pricey. P.us if it happens to break, no one knows how to work on it. If I could get one for the same price as a regular one, I might try it. But at 17-1900. That's pushing it. The cost savings break, just isn't there.