Natural Gas Hot Water Heater - Replacement Help

[amf27]

I'm planning to replace my 12-year old natural gas 40 gallon hot water heater (see attached photos) with a new Whirlpool nat gas 50 gallon tank. I've replaced an electric hot water tank before, but never done much with gas. Given that, plus the fact that my home is almost 90 years old, I have a few questions, hoping someone can help.

1. In the 4th photo (IMG3862) you can see the shutoff on my black iron pipe natural gas line running to the water heater. It looks to me like an old water line shutoff rather than the nice new gas 1/4 turn shutoffs. Should I mess with replacing it? I am a little worried about trusting it to actually "shut off" while I'm working on the line below connecting to the tank.

2. In the 5th photo (IMG3863) it shows where the "L" of the above mentioned black iron gas line comes down (full view in IMG3859). This is maybe the most curious part for me. Is the new tank going to have the nat gas hookup in almost the exact same spot as this tank? Or will I be having to make significant adjustments messing with the height and length of the black iron gas line trying to get it to line up with my new tank's hookup? Is a nat gas flex line hookup acceptable to use (I've seen them on stove/oven hookups, but never a water heater).

3. For the water connections on top of the tank (IMG3860), should I stick with the copper lines or can I replace those with flex lines? Obviously I would need to install a new shutoff as well.

I greatly appreciate input anyone can provide on any of those points. I'd really like to save some $$ and tackle this myself, but I don't want be taking risks with my home by improperly connecting new gas lines.

Thanks!!

 

[SHR]

First things first, DO NOT PURCHASE OR INSTALL A WHIRLPOOL BRAND WATER HEATER!!! Plumbers argue all the time about which water heater brands are the best. The one thing we all agree on is NEVER INSTALL A WHIRLPOOL brand water heater.

 

[frodo]

rheem !!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[amf27]

Thanks for the tip, my options are Whirlpool (Lowes) or Rheem (Home Depot). Guess I'll take a closer look at the Rheem.

The valve I agree doesn't seem right, I'm definitely replacing it even though now I have to shut off the gas main so it's getting a bit more in depth.

Any insight into the gas hookups?

 

[amf27]

Also, I'm in Pennsylvania.

 

[frodo]

gas valve has the letters WOG stamped on the side , if it is not stamped WOG it is not a valve for gas use

Water
Oil
Gas

remove / replace valve

hook up new unit with an approved gas connector.

READ the BTU rating for the heater and buy the CORRECT sized flex connector

DO NOT buy the little cheap connector because its cheaper, it MUST be the correct size.

compare the btu rating

 

[KULTULZ]

That's an older gas supply hard hookup. You need (IMO) to go with a flexible supply hose and hand shut-off valvel Replace the nipple from the supply/drip leg (keep drip leg) to the main valve on the WH.

 

[phishfood]

In kultulz's picture, the flex connector is before the valve. DO NOT do this, the shutoff valve needs to be BEFORE the flex connector, so that if the flex itself or the flare fittings on the end of it develop a leak, it can be shut down without shutting down the entire house.

As long as you are not in earthquake country, I don't have any problems with a hard piped connection.

 

[KULTULZ]

In kultulz's picture, the flex connector is before the valve. DO NOT do this, the shutoff valve needs to be BEFORE the flex connector, so that if the flex itself or the flare fittings on the end of it develop a leak, it can be shut down without shutting down the entire house.

As long as you are not in earthquake country, I don't have any problems with a hard piped connection.

That's where my lack of license cuts in...

I noticed the photo showed the drip leg in the wrong position but was the only one I came across and hoped it would give him a visual.

 

[KULTULZ]

I noticed the photo showed the drip leg in the wrong position but was the only one I came across and hoped it would give him a visual.

Let me try to qualify this...

In the Ill I offered... the drip leg is installed @ the thermostat valve, which is correct in that install.

You need (Again IMO ) to retain your present drip leg and run the flex hose (with properly positioned gas cock) straight to the thermostat valve.

Now (Again IMO ) the flex line should be run level (no dips and/or low spots to catch and retain trash) as shown on the following illustration.

 

[amf27]

Thanks for all of the replies.

My tentative gameplan would be to absolutely replace the old shutoff with a new "and real" gas shutoff valve, near the same area (top) of the line that the current one is in. From that new shutoff, I wanted to put on a small 5-6" nipple, and then connect the gas flex line direct from that nipple about 36" directly into the hot water tank.

By doing this, I would obviously be eliminating the "drip" piece. What purpose does that serve? Do I need to have the drip leg or can that be cutout and the flex directly connected into the heater?

Thank you.

 

[voletl]

That drip piece is there to catch any partials flowing through your pipe instead of going into your gas valve and potentially destroying it the particles fall in the drip

 

[KULTULZ]

Thanks for all of the replies.

My tentative game-plan would be to absolutely replace the old shutoff with a new "and real" gas shutoff valve, near the same area (top) of the line that the current one is in. From that new shutoff, I wanted to put on a small 5-6" nipple, and then connect the gas flex line direct from that nipple about 36" directly into the hot water tank.

By doing this, I would obviously be eliminating the "drip" piece. What purpose does that serve? Do I need to have the drip leg or can that be cutout and the flex directly connected into the heater?

Thank you.

That drip piece is there to catch any partials flowing through your pipe instead of going into your gas valve and potentially destroying it the particles fall in the drip

!!! TRUE WORDS !!!

The drip leg (or sediment trap) has to be retained.

If it was mine...

I would remove the old gate valve and insert a black pipe nipple (available in inch increments) and couple(s) to have the black iron pipe end where it presently does, elbow it, new gas cock and flexible connector to the thermostat valve.

These flex lines are easily damaged and you don't want extended runs where they are not hidden or protected (CSST gas runs for instance). As mentioned previously, the gas cock goes before the flex to enable easy appliance cutoff rather than shutting down the house.

 

[frodo]

it is called a condensation drip leg, it is to be installed at the low point in the system.
typically, that would be at the drop to the unit.

 

[ozzyboy]

Homeowners should not touch gas. Pay a plumber $500 to install!!