My new hot water tank input is leaking

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Jim Greene

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I live in a remote place where it's hard to find good skilled people. A plumber recently replaced my rusty, broken hot water tank.
The hose connections from the old tank had a slow leak that I think was coming from the cold water input to the tank; it had rusted the top enameling of the tank, and of course the electrical wasn't protected from this.

He didn't wap out the several adapters on the input side... looks like things aren't meant to fit together. And I still see a leak forming a puddle over the painted surface of my new tank.

In my "before" photos, you may notice the braided output hose had salt efflorescence coming out of it. It looks as rusty as ever, so I think the guy wire brushed the salts off and called it a day. I don't want to criticize him cause I don't know what he's up against, but it sure looks like he half-a$$'ed it.

When I see all those adapters sitting in the middle and the two different types of hose, I can't help but think something's not right with this. It's gotta be streamline-able, right?

I'm a nerd, but not a plumber. While I don't want to DIY it necessarily, but I would love it if someone could walk me through how I would address this. Is there a ready-made part? Can I measure the diameters and thread distance with calipers and find what standards are called and identify the ideal adapter online at some plumbers' supply paradise (assuming it can't be found at the Home Cheapo)?
 

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An update. I see now that the leak emanates from this metal hose, which, as the label (failed to see it before) indicates, is a gas hose.

I have signboard (coroplast) lying around so I jury-rigged a slanted form of it and a drip loop so it will drain onto the tile floor instead, which seems like a lesser evil

The cold side had a blue flange thing that I pulled upwards. It reveals there's already a rusty color developed under it that's not on the hot side, so maybe it's already too late to avoid damage... but any informed thoughts are welcomed
 

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An update. I see now that the leak emanates from this metal hose, which, as the label (failed to see it before) indicates, is a gas hose.

I have signboard (coroplast) lying around so I jury-rigged a slanted form of it and a drip loop so it will drain onto the tile floor instead, which seems like a lesser evil

The cold side had a blue flange thing that I pulled upwards. It reveals there's already a rusty color developed under it that's not on the hot side, so maybe it's already too late to avoid damage... but any informed thoughts are welcomed

You confirmed my suspicion. All of the piping on top of your heater should be replaced.
 
I’m interested in what the blue tag says on the cold water flexy pipe.
Sorry I hadn't read your reply before I posted. It seems not only to be the source of the leak itself, but it says it's a *gas* hose to boot.
 
You confirmed my suspicion. All of the piping on top of your heater should be replaced.
You made me laugh out loud... I'm not a plumber and I had the same feeling...

The thing is... where do I begin?

The inlet size from the wall, with the crank valve on top, seems very narrow - not garden hose spigot size for instance. Any suggestions about what to do? Other than locate a better plumber than the one I found?

e.g., should I expect that someone should come by packing the torch and replacing that with a garden-hose size, and proper valves so that I could just use braided washer hose like what appears [to my admittedly untrained self] to be used on the hot side?

Or am I OK seeking some sort of brass adapter that would mate this to a washer hose? Or am I getting it?
 
Last edited:
Typically the pipe size is 3/4”.

You could use a couple stainless steel water heater flex lines.

If you do hire a plumber, make sure he/she has a State plumbing license and has Liability insurance.
 
Typically the pipe size is 3/4”.

You could use a couple stainless steel water heater flex lines.

If you do hire a plumber, make sure he/she has a State plumbing license and has Liability insurance.

So, fair to say, ideally, our ultimate goal would be something like this (just found on HomeDepot website). 3/4" FIP is the standard.

I may well need to find that licensed and insured plumber you mentioned cause from the looks of it this pipe that's in the input on the wall is really small, as its the threading.

Thank you much!

O 1691341617709.png
 
An update. I see now that the leak emanates from this metal hose, which, as the label (failed to see it before) indicates, is a gas hose.

I have signboard (coroplast) lying around so I jury-rigged a slanted form of it and a drip loop so it will drain onto the tile floor instead, which seems like a lesser evil

The cold side had a blue flange thing that I pulled upwards. It reveals there's already a rusty color developed under it that's not on the hot side, so maybe it's already too late to avoid damage... but any informed thoughts are welcomed
never seen that one, a gas connector for water......why not.
 
never seen that one, a gas connector for water......why not.
I found one just like this in a farmhouse my grandson was renting. Twowaxhack beat me to questioning that corrugated line while I was at church. Thank goodness the water heater in my grandson's rental house failed right after he moved in. The landlord paid for a new water heater and all the piping components, and I installed everything correctly.
 
I found one just like this in a farmhouse my grandson was renting. Twowaxhack beat me to questioning that corrugated line while I was at church. Thank goodness the water heater in my grandson's rental house failed right after he moved in. The landlord paid for a new water heater and all the piping components, and I installed everything correctly.
they do make corrugated stainless water heater connectors, btw, never seen a gas connector used to water though, thanks for that.
 
they do make corrugated stainless water heater connectors, btw, never seen a gas connector used to water though, thanks for that.
Yep, they do. But this one was an LP gas water heater, and the corrugated gas supply line and the corrugated hot water line were both labeled for gas service. LOL

I did replace the gas line with a new CSST connector in case anyone was wondering. I would have hard piped it, but I didn't have my threading machine and would have needed some custom nipples to do it right.
 
I live in a remote place where it's hard to find good skilled people. .......

I'm a nerd, but not a plumber. While I don't want to DIY it necessarily, but I would love it if someone could walk me through how I would address this. Is there a ready-made part? Can I measure the diameters and thread distance with calipers and find what standards are called and identify the ideal adapter online at some plumbers' supply paradise (assuming it can't be found at the Home Cheapo)?
Buy a hardcover copy of this book (used it's around $6 delivered)
Amazon.com

It will get you through most plumbing problems/repairs you're liable to find, and as I remember will instruct you on pipe sizes, threads, and tools. Yes, Big Box Store probably has parts that you need to do this job.
You might also want to buy companion book(s) on electrical wiring.
With *that* install, I've got to wonder what the guy did with the wiring connections you can't see.
 
Buy a hardcover copy of this book (used it's around $6 delivered)
Amazon.com

It will get you through most plumbing problems/repairs you're liable to find, and as I remember will instruct you on pipe sizes, threads, and tools. Yes, Big Box Store probably has parts that you need to do this job.
You might also want to buy companion book(s) on electrical wiring.
With *that* install, I've got to wonder what the guy did with the wiring connections you can't see.
I see Walmart is selling used books @ $5.38 Robot or human?
 
Buy a hardcover copy of this book (used it's around $6 delivered)
Amazon.com

It will get you through most plumbing problems/repairs you're liable to find, and as I remember will instruct you on pipe sizes, threads, and tools. Yes, Big Box Store probably has parts that you need to do this job.
You might also want to buy companion book(s) on electrical wiring.
With *that* install, I've got to wonder what the guy did with the wiring connections you can't see.
Now you're genuinely scaring me!

Being a new fangled thingamajig, this new tank has an LED on it, suggesting that whatever electric in it is also "electronic" (i.e., possibly a lot more complicated).

But thanks for the book recommendation!
 
Not to worry, that stuff's under warranty for awhile yet.
I'm talking about *basic* connection of power to the tank.
Should be done with wires twisted together, then capped with a wire-nut.
first few minutes
 

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