Is this normal? New House / Pressure Release Value Question

[ClearMountainWay]

Hello, I've just purchased a house and the inspector mentioned that the water heater was not set up properly at the pressure release value.

I'm attaching photos here.

Could you tell me if this normal and if not what I would need to do to fix it?

 

[voletl]

Yeah that water heater is potential bomb right now.
You have to remove that plug immediately if the temperature and pressure relief valve is leaking or dripping replace it other than that it cannot be plugged like that extremely dangerous if the pressure builds up it will explode. I'm surprised you were able to even purchase the house with something that dangerous on the inspection list.

 

[ClearMountainWay]

Yeah that water heater is potential bomb right now.
You have to remove that plug immediately if the temperature and pressure relief valve is leaking or dripping replace it other than that it cannot be plugged like that extremely dangerous if the pressure builds up it will explode. I'm surprised you were able to even purchase the house with something that dangerous on the inspection list.

Wow. Thank you for letting me know. I've called a professional to take care of it as I don't yet know my way around a water heater.

Thanks again.

 

[jeffmattero76]

Wow. Thank you for letting me know. I've called a professional to take care of it as I don't yet know my way around a water heater.

Thanks again.

You really don't need a professional. You have what appears to be a "shark bite cap" on the end of that pipe. If you go to the orange big box store, you can buy a tool to remove that shark bite cap for about $1. It looks like an orange horseshoe. You would put it on the white pipe and slide it towards the cap, and the cap will come right off.

I am not sure why the cap was installed. The purpose of that temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P valve) is to open and allow water to get out if the temperature or the pressure of the water in the tank gets too high. When it opens, it relieves the excess pressure. In normal operation, it should never open. There would normally be a pipe screwed into that T&P valve that would terminate within about 6 inches of the floor. The orange big box also sells those made out of pocket for a couple of dollars.

 

[jeffmattero76]

You really don't need a professional. You have what appears to be a "shark bite cap" on the end of that pipe. If you go to the orange big box store, you can buy a tool to remove that shark bite cap for about $1. It looks like an orange horseshoe. You would put it on the white pipe and slide it towards the cap, and the cap will come right off.

I am not sure why the cap was installed. The purpose of that temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P valve) is to open and allow water to get out if the temperature or the pressure of the water in the tank gets too high. When it opens, it relieves the excess pressure. In normal operation, it should never open. There would normally be a pipe screwed into that T&P valve that would terminate within about 6 inches of the floor. The orange big box also sells those made out of pocket for a couple of dollars.

Typo due to auto correct in my last sentence above. It should say that the orange big box sells them made out of PVC for a couple of dollars.

 

[jeffmattero76]

Typo due to auto correct in my last sentence above. It should say that the orange big box sells them made out of PVC for a couple of dollars.

Also, you could also simply remove what is connected to the T&P valve by using a wrench to unscrew the white PVC adapter that is screwed into that valve. Replace it with the PVC tube that I referenced above.

 

[Matt30]

Whoever capped that relief valve should be beaten.

It would not be a bad idea to have the water heater looked at, just to see if it was capped for a reason. It could have been dripping

 

[jeffmattero76]

Whoever capped that relief valve should be beaten.

It would not be a bad idea to have the water heater looked at, just to see if it was capped for a reason. It could have been dripping

He can either remove the cap, or remove the pvc fitting and the cap, and see if it leaks.

If it does first check your temperature setting on the front of the water heater. There is likely an arrow that designates "normal" setting, which should keep the water around 120 degrees. If set higher, you risk scalding someone, and you could see water leaking out of the T&P valve. Even if it is the T&P valve, it is a $10 part and easy to replace.

 

[voletl]

Also I just noticed that both your water heater and it looks like your furnace have been red tagged and should not be in operation I'm still wondering how the house was sold in that condition and why you were able to move into it under those circumstances

 

[justin_dewan90]

Take the cap off and either run a drain line through the crawl space and through an exterior wall so that it can drain outside or if you have a floor drain nearby pipe it to said floor drain. Should pipe it somewhere it can drain for if the heater builds to much pressure it has somewhere you can drain the water out and relieve the pressure.

 

[justin_dewan90]

Or have it plumbed to drain directly into the sewer stack that's right beside it. Would need to have a trap installed on that drain line if that's the way you go. Don't want your house smelling like sewage.

 

[Matt30]

Also I just noticed that both your water heater and it looks like your furnace have been red tagged and should not be in operation I'm still wondering how the house was sold in that condition and why you were able to move into it under those circumstances

Good eye! We don't have that kind of identification here. Inspectors just leave one big piece of paper in the door that says failed. Then you have to call them to ask why

 

[journeyman]

Also the expansion tank does not look to be supported it will eventually bend at its connection from the weight of water I would find a way to support

 

[PlumberMike]

omg pull tge plug from the tmp valve