How to remove (piping for/from) gas control valve

[NotAHandyGuy]

Looked at several videos on how to replace gas control valve but haven't seen this type of connection/union. Most of the videos have a connection off to left side and/or one that is easy to take apart but I'm unsure about what I see in the attached pic. I guess I'm supposed to turn the connection at the red arrow (see the pic) but I don't know which way to turn it or how to remove the piping. Can anyone assist?

 

[Geofd]

Your best option is to hire a licensed, insured plumber if your not familiar with
That fitting you shouldn't touch it
No offense .....

 

[FishScreener]

That is a union. And if this were a water line in your home, I’d say charge ahead. Worse case scenario you have a drip, and have to redo until you don’t.

But, this is a gas line, and has a whole slew of hazards, and can cause death If you screw something up.

So, I’m going with Geofd: Call a licensed plumber. Where I am the Gas companies will come do the work, at competitive prices.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

If you feel comfortable with plumbing, and can locate the proper shutoffs, well then go for it. If there is any doubt take the advice of the others here: hire a pro.

That being said, how old is your water heater? The reason why I ask is that replacing a gas valve on a water heater that may be more than 5 years old is probably not worth it.

My experience was this: some years ago, my pilot light kept going out. I'd hear my wife screaming at 5:30 AM "THERES NO HOT WATER!!!" and I'd have to go light the pilot, wait for things to heat up, and then either weeks or months later the same thing would happen. At this point the water heater was about 8 years old, a 50 gallon power vent model. I investigated a new gas control for it, and the parts were going to be something like $130. I realized that if I were able to get the right valve, install it and get it all working again, what I'd have is a huge investment of time and money in an 8 year old water heater! Not a good value proposition. I bit the bullet, bought a new water heater and installed it quickly. I managed to take the old water heater to a metals dump where they paid me like $7 for the scrap. I had pulled off the power vent assembly and sold that on eBay for $65. So be careful how you invest in an old water heater...it would be ashame to buy a new valve, install it or have it in$talled, only to find out it starts leaking next March...

 

[Jeff Handy]

You are asking for help, without first telling us the actual symptoms or problems you are having with the heater.

Start with that.

What performance issue are you having, that would make you think you need to change the gss valve, which is a fairly uncommon repair, in my experience?

Also, post a clear picture of the sticker that shows the brand of your heater, plus the model number and serial number.
Any correct advice will need this info.

 

[House Doc]

I'm glad you guys aren't on an automotive forum.. If someone asked how to change a tire you would want to know "how many miles?" Where is the car? What's the vin of the car? ???

To answer your question...
That's a black cast iron gas union. The large nut unscrews from the fitting above it (so it appears, the "sharper" edge of the nut is upwards). Turn off shutoff valve, should be just above the union, above your picture. Take 2 wrenches/pipe wrenches and use one to hold the top, smaller nut, then second wrench on larger (center) nut. Turn the larger nut towards your left and it should come loose. If codes allow it, you could use a flexible gas line to replace that hard line. In California they use flex because of earthquake possibilities. Much easier to install. Just make sure to loop it down and then up before the control valve

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

I'm glad you guys aren't on an automotive forum.. If someone asked how to change a tire you would want to know "how many miles?" Where is the car? What's the vin of the car? ???

What makes you think we're not on any automotive forums? I'm actually on one all the time.

The answers that are provided here are perfectly sensible. Replacing a gas valve on a water heater is no easy task, and not a common one either. So questioning the need is the first step to helping the guy; now, when the new member with the handle "Not a handy guy" wants to work around and with gas piping, and he doesn't even know how to identify or remove a simple union fitting, the answers provided by @FishScreener and @Geofd make perfect sense. Probably not the best project for someone so inexperienced to take on, YouTube videos or not.

On the automotive forum I'm on, the VIN question is asked all the time because the answer changes. "I want to replace the tail lamp", for example, on my forum car, would vary based on VIN. Depending on the question, so does the mileage and location. "I want to get a valve job"; an answer for a car with 150,000 miles on it may be very different than one with 15,000. "I need new plug wires, where can I get a set?" Recommending something for someone in Boston will be very different then for someone in Beirut...and our forum has members in both locations.

I think everyone has the same idea--providing the best solutions with the big picture in mind.

 

[NotAHandyGuy]

Thanks for all the replies. I don't have any pipe wrenches but I do have a couple of crescent wrenches. One is 8" & I believe the other is 10" so I hope they'll give me enough torque to loosen the union.

As far as the original problem/symptom, the water doesn't get hot only lukewarm. The water heater was installed just over 3 yrs ago so I contacted the manufacturer (Rheem) about it. Rheem had me do what they call an isolation test. The first step was to raise the temperature control until the burner came on but the burner never fired up; even after running hot water in several different places & temperature control at highest setting. So currently I have a steady pilot light but the burner won't fire for whatever reason/s? The led on the control valve blinks indicating normal operation? When I told Rheem, they said the gas control valve is the issue so they shipped me a new valve which is coming in the next day or so.

Rheem said the new valve comes with instructions on how to remove/replace it. In the past I've connected gas lines for an oven & a dryer so I'm not a newbie working on a gas line but I'd never seen that union before. If I remember correctly both the oven and dryer had flex lines so it was easy for me to tell how to connect but (to me) the union looks like one big nut so I came here to ask about it. The piping is easy to get to & I have plenty of room so I thought it wouldn't be too much to handle.

Really bothers me that if this problem came 2 - 3 months earlier it would still be under full (3 yrs) warranty & not the limited (9 yrs) warranty so I wouldn't have to bother with an install. I welcome all additional replies now that the problem/symptom is known. I hope the fix is the control valve & not the thermostat or something else but I'm just going with what Rheem told me...

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

What bad luck, @NotAHandyGuy! As you said, had this problem started 2-3 months ago...

You may need to get at least one pipe wrench since it is doubtful those crescents will be of much help. A 10" Crescent opens to about 1 5/16. I'm fairly certain you'll need larger...

 

[Jeff Handy]

I agree you will likely need bigger and longer wrenches, unions are usually very tight.

Check all gas connections with soapy water afterwards, including the gas line to the burner and all others.

Good luck, please don’t blow yourself up!

 

[NotAHandyGuy]

Hey @Jeff Handy I stated the problem... thanks

You are asking for help, without first telling us the actual symptoms or problems you are having with the heater.

Start with that.

What performance issue are you having, that would make you think you need to change the gss valve, which is a fairly uncommon repair, in my experience?

Also, post a clear picture of the sticker that shows the brand of your heater, plus the model number and serial number.
Any correct advice will need this info.

 

[NotAHandyGuy]

Thanks @Jeff Handy, your reply posted before my previous one so were good. Appreciate all your help & I have a spray bottle for the soapy water to check all gas connections.

I agree you will likely need bigger and longer wrenches, unions are usually very tight.

Check all gas connections with soapy water afterwards, including the gas line to the burner and all others.

Good luck, please don’t blow yourself up!

 

[Helper Dave]

One or two decent sized pipe wrenches, and a mid-size channel locks wrench are best for taking black pipe apart.

You'll need to take the tee/drip leg assembly apart to get it off the gas control valve, and then pit it all back together, so ... go buy em. Crescent wrenches don't do much on black pipe.

 

[Jeff Handy]

You will use good wrenches many times in the future, I agree you should spend to get good results.

I have often bought a pricey tool thinking it was just for one job, then it became a cherished and essential favorite.

 

[RS]

It doesn't sound to me like you should attempt to work on a gas line, call a professional!