I want to change older hose bibbs to ball valve types. Current ones are sweat on and stubs are in brick-so very short. I'm thinking--sweat off the current then sweat on an adapter so I can use a screw on type valve. If I have regular 1/2 in pipe--does it make sense to use a 1/2 in to 3/4 in male? adapter then a 3/4 in (female) valve ? stronger fitting? Thanx for any advice on whats best and any help in not burning down the house-----Bob
hose bibb change out
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if you remove the sweat on type and install a male adapter.
at some point, you will want to remove the screw on hose bib.
and,,,you will twist off the copper when you do.
to remove a soldered hose bib with out burning down the house
remove the handle/ stem/ all inside parts
heat the hose bib it self, the heat will transfer to the pipe
at some point, you will want to remove the screw on hose bib.
and,,,you will twist off the copper when you do.
to remove a soldered hose bib with out burning down the house
remove the handle/ stem/ all inside parts
heat the hose bib it self, the heat will transfer to the pipe
No need to install a 3/4" hose bib onto a 1/2" pipe.
It is not going to make the 1/2" pipe stub out any stronger.
Just use a 1/2" female adapter and a 1/2" male HB.
I have used a chrome escutcheon, installed backwards, a time or 2 as a heat shield. you can peel it off after you are done
It is not going to make the 1/2" pipe stub out any stronger.
Just use a 1/2" female adapter and a 1/2" male HB.
I have used a chrome escutcheon, installed backwards, a time or 2 as a heat shield. you can peel it off after you are done
Thanx for the reponse. Going to try with the female adapter--looks like it gives me a little more extension to do the screw on. Yep will do all 1/2in. Good idea on the eustacheon--but dont think I can get it on since looks like to much of the bibb is buried in and the copper covered with mortar! See photo if it worked. So--guess I will have to try and remove mortar and brick and hopefully dont ding the copper! Yep-realize if I have to do future removal, I could twist off the copper--but at worst could probably just sweat off that female adapter---
That is a sill cock. Normally screwed on. That flange was meant to be flush with the wall.
never seen a sweat on sill cock
The notch on the flange is for a set screw so it wont turn/unscrew
The fitting is normally secured in the wall so you won't twist it off.
Look real close behind flange.You might see a brass nipple instead of copper pipe.
never seen a sweat on sill cock
The notch on the flange is for a set screw so it wont turn/unscrew
The fitting is normally secured in the wall so you won't twist it off.
Look real close behind flange.You might see a brass nipple instead of copper pipe.
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will I guess they do have soldered on sill cocks.
I would cut off the bib with a hack saw with out cutting any of the existing pipe this way the water can drain out.
Push a little white bread into the pipe if it dribbles to much.
That way you don't have to fight the water.
I would cut off the bib with a hack saw with out cutting any of the existing pipe this way the water can drain out.
Push a little white bread into the pipe if it dribbles to much.
That way you don't have to fight the water.
thanx for help. I finally got to number 7 on the Honey-Do list! Removed some of the brick so I could get to the thing. Yep--its a screwed on sillcock. But its not to a copper fitting. Looks like 3/4 iron pipe? Outside diameter is like .83? Put some penetrating oil on the thread and will see if I can unscrew the thing tomorrow. It was flush with the brick and packed in mortar.
