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Amtrolman59

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Trying to fix my water problem, Looking at getting a new pump but I searched all over the net and can't find the model I have now, This is what was written on the paper on my box,
Mueller
Aermotor
Model#A8B50
1/2 H.P.
Date Code H88
Motor MFG Franklin
 
You also have to be aware that different models are not "geared" the same. I would see if you have any info on depth of well and your static level.
And what the well yielded as far as gpm when it was drilled. That will help you properly size one from different manufacturers.
 
Thanks for the answers, I couldn't find anywhere what the gmp was put it was marked for depth of well at 180 feet, don't know why they never wrote down the gmp, So I gave up and called a well driller today which is about 4 miles from my house, He came over within 30 minutes and checked the AMP draw which would jump to about 13 AMP to which he said was way too high that it should be around 6AMP, So he put in a new goulds 7gpm pump, Cost me $785.00 but everything is working great so far.
 
Oh valveman, your right as I was told they don't make them anymore and they aren't installing control boxes anymore either because their putting the switches on the pump.
 
Oh valveman, your right as I was told they don't make them anymore and they aren't installing control boxes anymore either because their putting the switches on the pump.

"Switches on the pump"?? Two wire submersibles have never required a control box, but three wire pumps require a control box. I guess they could be talking about a Biac start switch on a two wire motor, but it really sounds like they don't know what they are talking about.
 
"Switches on the pump"?? Two wire submersibles have never required a control box, but three wire pumps require a control box. I guess they could be talking about a Biac start switch on a two wire motor, but it really sounds like they don't know what they are talking about.

:eek:

'Ya Know?

You are a good man to have around...
grinning-smiley-003.gif
 
Whatever you do, avoid the Countryline brand of pumps they sell at Tractor Supply Co. They are absolute garbage. I had one for less than a month and it cracked a rod in the piston. I don't know what brand others recommend, but I personally have had good luck with Goulds. My farm has a lot of power surges and outages and the Goulds lasted over 10 years. It only burned out because of a plumbing leak that kept it running for too long without a reprieve.

Edit: For some reason I didn't see the message before that you got a Goulds pump.
 
It only burned out because of a plumbing leak that kept it running for too long without a reprieve.

I doubt that a leak large enough to keep the pump running 24/7 is what caused the pump to be destroyed. Pumps like to run 24/7. I will bet it was a small leak and the pump cycled on and off until it was toast.

Cycling on and off is what destroys most pumps. A Cycle Stop Valve would have kept the pump running 24/7 with a small leak the same way it does for a drip system, and the pump would not have cycled itself to death.
 
Lets see if I can get this right Valveman, There is a box on the wall by the pressure tank which I think is called a control box, It has a 12/2 wire in it that goes to the pressure switch box, It also has a yellow colored wire that has 3 wires to it coming from the pump, Then from the main electric box there is a 12/2 wire going to the pressure switch box, What ever parts that are in the control box are no longer needed as those parts are on the pump, this is what the well driller installer told me.
 
Lets see if I can get this right Valveman, There is a box on the wall by the pressure tank which I think is called a control box, It has a 12/2 wire in it that goes to the pressure switch box, It also has a yellow colored wire that has 3 wires to it coming from the pump, Then from the main electric box there is a 12/2 wire going to the pressure switch box, What ever parts that are in the control box are no longer needed as those parts are on the pump, this is what the well driller installer told me.

Did the pump make/PN get listed on your receipt?
 
Lets see if I can get this right Valveman, There is a box on the wall by the pressure tank which I think is called a control box, It has a 12/2 wire in it that goes to the pressure switch box, It also has a yellow colored wire that has 3 wires to it coming from the pump, Then from the main electric box there is a 12/2 wire going to the pressure switch box, What ever parts that are in the control box are no longer needed as those parts are on the pump, this is what the well driller installer told me.

That is a very rudimentary way to describe the difference between a 2 wire and a 3 wire motor, and it is not exactly true. The 3 control box for the 3 wire pump gives you a capacitor start, which has more torque to keep the pump from locking up with sand or something like that. With a fairly clean well the 2 wire motor will work fine, but it still doesn't have the starting torque of a 3 wire motor with a control box.

2 wire or 3 wire probably won't make much difference, but that description is a tell about the pump installers lack of knowledge. If he thinks a 2 wire motor has a starting capacitor, then he is probably wrong about other things as well.
 
I might not be describing it very well as I'm new to this, the installer really did a good job in my opinion, He only told me with the new goulds pump that I didn't need the control box anymore, KULTULZ, The pump is a Goulds #7HS05422 C.
 
...hmmpf...

Goulds HS Series, 4", 2 Wire, 7GPM, .5HP, 230V, Submersible Pump 7HS05422C

Complete pump/motor assemblies are CSA listed, CSA/CUS approved motors are available in 2-wire and 3-wire single phase designs.

PSC, permanent split capacitor, 2 wire motors are
efficient and quiet.

- CentriPro Single Phase 2-Wire Motors Info -
 
The permanent split phase (PSP) capacitor is noting like the starting capacitor in a control box for a 3 wire motor. The PSP is a running capacitor that stays in the circuit as long as the motor is running. The start cap in a 3 wire system gets shut off as soon as the motor starts in about a half second. The start cap will give more torque to the motor when sand or other debris is trying to lock it down. But with fairly clean water the 2 wire system has plenty of torque.

The main problem is that I am seeing some of those motors with the PSP capacitor fail very quickly. I am thinking they are not using capacitors that are good enough to run continuously as long as the pump is running. I am seeing this problem on the Pentair motors and they are made the same and at the same factory as the Goulds Centripro so I am assuming they are having this problem as well.
 
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