Sorry, I forgot to mention that I actually removed the 4 flange bolts before I took those pics so I do have these screws. its in a basement on a slab and no floor damage has occurred so I seem to be good there as well. After removing the bolts, I thought maybe the flange just removes, but it doesn't appear to be that easy. After looking at some stuff online, I would have to cut that whole flange out, right?It appears the original flange was not screwed to the floor, so it is not surprising that the flange broke. A flange repair kit will fix the flange, but there is a crack in the "face" of the flange. A wax seal will not positively seal that crack, so you have a real possibility of floor damage and leakage, if it has not already occurred. The flange does need to be replaced.
what is involved in replacing the whole flange myself? Isn't that glued in there? Or is it easier than I am thinking?Looking at your picture, you have a crack well inside what the metal flange would protect. You have no choice but to replace the entire toilet flange.
There are six screws that are supposed to hold the flange down. Better flanges have eight. The PVC flanges need ALL the screws to be installed.Sorry, I forgot to mention that I actually removed the 4 flange bolts before I took those pics so I do have these screws. its in a basement on a slab and no floor damage has occurred so I seem to be good there as well. After removing the bolts, I thought maybe the flange just removes, but it doesn't appear to be that easy. After looking at some stuff online, I would have to cut that whole flange out, right?
If so, I think a repair ring would be an easier option. Sounds like this should do the trick:
Oatley Galvanized Steel Flange
Use some caulk then let it dry for a day.Fully replaced flange. Wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be. Toilet is mounted, but wobbles a little so will get some shims and stabilize it. Thanks for help
With no shims ?Use some caulk then let it dry for a day.
Enter your email address to join: