dual sink drain in wall problem

[iamnotaplumber]

I have a the walls torn out and I have a dual sink drain, but the right side is a strange pipe. The drain pipe in the wall seems to be cast iron and is a 4 way pipe:

1) upward to the exhaust in the roof
2) down to the drain
3) left to the left sink drain (there is no sink since the bathroom is gutted)
4) right to the right sink drain (HERE IS THE PROBLEM SINCE IT IS A STRANGE PIPE FITTING)

When I took the previous right drain apart it was put together with a rubber connector and an O clamp... kind of "jerry rigged" if you ask me. This seems to be because of the weird pipe fitting described in 4) above.

How do I fix this? The guy at the hardware store says that the male/smaller pipe fitting might unscrew but I've been unable to unscrew it. It's either rusted in place or simply part of the main drain pipe.

I want the right side to look like the left side so I can connect the right drain correctly without "jerry rigging" it.

 

[frodo]

unscrew BOTH sides of that fixture fitting. then, with a flash light inspect it.

if it is in goot condition,

screw a pvc male adapter in both sides and plumb the sinks

 

[Mr_David]

That cast iron fitting is a Durham steel double fixture tee.
The chance of you unscrewing the nipple are pretty slim to none.
Since you have it open I would replace all that with ABS pipe.
The drain below looks like steel and you can cut it with a sawsall.
Reconnect new pipe with similar band seal coupling like the one you took off.
Search this forum. There are plenty of references to them.
Install a new DOUBLE FIXTURE TEE.
Hire a plumber probably take him less than an hour to change it out.
There are plenty of wrong ways to rework it.

 

[Mr_David]

Here is one I just redid on Friday.
This one was all cast iron and cracked going into the concrete slab.
I have to finish it on Monday.
Last photo I took I was cutting out ( 2 ) 4" x 2" combo's below the slab.
Fun times

Their are 2 stacks
The left is dead.
The right is a double fixture tee with a kitchen on the other side of the wall.

 

[frodo]

i am liking that old school revent. wyes instead of tees. SEXY!!!!!!!!

 

[iamnotaplumber]

unscrew BOTH sides of that fixture fitting. then, with a flash light inspect it.

if it is in goot condition,

screw a pvc male adapter in both sides and plumb the sinks

How would you suggest I best do this? What tools will I need?

I'd have to break through the wall into the next room and would like to avoid that if possible. And I'd have to hold up the exhaust pipe and the drain pipe so they don't fall downward (not sure if they even would fall) but I want to be prepared for anything if I do that.

I was hoping to unscrew that weird "male" fitting on the right side somehow. Any tips on this?

 

[iamnotaplumber]

That cast iron fitting is a Durham steel double fixture tee.
The chance of you unscrewing the nipple are pretty slim to none.
Since you have it open I would replace all that with ABS pipe.
The drain below looks like steel and you can cut it with a sawsall.
Reconnect new pipe with similar band seal coupling like the one you took off.
Search this forum. There are plenty of references to them.
Install a new DOUBLE FIXTURE TEE.
Hire a plumber probably take him less than an hour to change it out.
There are plenty of wrong ways to rework it.

I'm trying to avoid those rubber connections. I can already put it back together just fine with the rubber O clamp connector so why would I do all kinds of work and cutting things just to put another rubber connector/clamp?

 

[frodo]

my suggestion is to unscrew the pipe from the fitting and inspect the threads....if good, reuse the fitting.

if you need to be told what tool to use,

call a plumber. you are over your head

 

[Mr_David]

How would you suggest I best do this? What tools will I need?



I was hoping to unscrew that weird "male" fitting on the right side somehow. Any tips on this?

Here is a link to removing a copper/brass DWV trap arm.
The brass rings on the copper are easier to remove and there are usually some useable threads left in the fitting.
Maybe the steel nipple in your fitting will come out and leave some useable threads like FRODO suggests.
I rarely have success in removing a steel nipple trap arm from a cast tee fitting.
The steel is often badly degraded that the nipple threads do not separate from the fitting.

All you can do is try. easier to just cut it all out now that the wall is open.
Band seal couplings are good PROFLEX or MISSION BANDS.

one on the vent and one on the vertical drain below the dbl tee.
Every thing else ABS or PVS plastic.


Most all commercial cast iron drain systems are put together with a similar coupling. NO HUB coupling.

 

[Mr_David]

I used ( 2 ) 4" No Hub couplings with No Hub ABS adapters in the hole.
Brought up only one line. .
The vent pipe on the Dbl fixture tee was cracked all the way up to the WYE, so I rerouted the vent to the left vent and cut that wye out.


If you have the ability to go below the floor I would replace all the pipe in that wall. It's already open.
A couple years down the road you may regret it.

But that's okay! Do it your way. It's just a recommendation.
Some people are minimalist and do as little as possible.

 

[iamnotaplumber]

Here is a link to removing a copper/brass DWV trap arm.
The brass rings on the copper are easier to remove and there are usually some useable threads left in the fitting.
Maybe the steel nipple in your fitting will come out and leave some useable threads like FRODO suggests.
I rarely have success in removing a steel nipple trap arm from a cast tee fitting.
The steel is often badly degraded that the nipple threads do not separate from the fitting.

All you can do is try. easier to just cut it all out now that the wall is open.
Band seal couplings are good PROFLEX or MISSION BANDS.

one on the vent and one on the vertical drain below the dbl tee.
Every thing else ABS or PVS plastic.


Most all commercial cast iron drain systems are put together with a similar coupling. NO HUB coupling.

There is no reason to cut anything out if i'm going to use rubber couplings (no hub couplings) I can just put it back together. It works perfectly, it's just not how I would do it if I could do it 100% right. I would have the left be the exact same as the right with a metal to metal threads.

In my opinoin a rubber part is a downgrade. But what do I know I am not a plumber.

And I don't think I can get in over my head with a sink drain. It's not like my Physics degree from Stanford will prevent me from understanding how to tighten a tin clamp around a rubber hose.

 

[phishfood]

There is no reason to cut anything out if i'm going to use rubber couplings (no hub couplings) I can just put it back together. It works perfectly, it's just not how I would do it if I could do it 100% right. I would have the left be the exact same as the right with a metal to metal threads.

In my opinoin a rubber part is a downgrade. But what do I know I am not a plumber.

And I don't think I can get in over my head with a sink drain. It's not like my Physics degree from Stanford will prevent me from understanding how to tighten a tin clamp around a rubber hose.

Your user name makes it clear that you are not a plumber. On the flip side, as far as I know, none of us plumbers on this forum have a physics degree from any college.

But we all have replaced lots of rotted cast iron, and we are trying to save you the headaches that we have learned to avoid. Take it or leave it.

 

[Mr_David]

There is no reason to cut anything out if i'm going to use rubber couplings (no hub couplings) I can just put it back together. It works perfectly, it's just not how I would do it if I could do it 100% right. I would have the left be the exact same as the right with a metal to metal threads.

In my opinoin a rubber part is a downgrade. But what do I know I am not a plumber.

Changing to plastic would be an upgrade. I don't know what the inside of your pipe looks like but here are some pictures of typical iron drain pipes.

 

[Mr_David]

Want to try to unscrew the nipple?
get a big pipe wrench, 18" or 24"

Maybe a helper (length of pipe that will fit over handle) to give you more leverage.

Please let use know how this works out.

I also agree that the no hub band is not the right type of band for that application.
NH bands are for cast soil pipe. Not for malleable steel pipe.
You can use Mission or Proflex bands.

You having and educated knowledge of physics may also agree that the fitting you did remove can be compromised by the rotational force of the of the trap arm that you removed. There is nothing supporting the drain & trap protruding from the wall unless it is attached to the sink.

You won't have the rotational stress on those types of coupling when used on the vertical pipe