DIY fix - question on how to do better

[gthomson]

While adding a lever shut off valve just before a sprinkler valve on a metal riser, I turned too much, and it broke off the iron nipple going into the PVC T underground. Attached is a picture of the setup, the main thing different is that it was a 1 1/4" T on all sides previously. The nipple to the right broke off. And what I realized after finally taking a sawzall to the old T, was that the nipple was glued into the PVC T. So as hard as I tried, it wasn't coming out.

The pipe coming up from below is 1 1/4", and went down at least 2', maybe more. Not sure if the old T was threaded or slip, but in any case it was also glued with PVC cement.

I was without water until I got this fixed, turn on the main water, and it comes gushing out.

So I fixed it the best I could, with what I know, so that I could take a shower and flush the toilet by Monday before going back in to work.

And I'm here now to try to understand what I should have done better and/or different.

The previous T was 1 1/4" on all three.
Two reducers on the left to drop it down to 3/4" for that line, and one reducer on the right to drop it down to 1".
So I used a 1" T - threaded on all sides, and put a small nipple into the downward opening.
Then used Loctite Marine epoxy to glue that T onto the vertical pipe coming up.

They previously had metal in the same pieces as the picture on the right side, so I did the same. Although I didn't glue that nipple into the T this time.

Is it bad to switch from PVC to metal?
Are there reasons to use the metal for the riser parts - or is that likely just what they used because it's what they had?
Is it common to have that T glued on to that vertical 1 1/4" PVC that goes down at least 2+ feet?
Is what I did acceptable or mickey mouse? I'm guessing the latter, but it got it going.
How would somebody that knows what they're doing do this kind of setup?

Greg

 

[Mr_David]

You should always screw Plastic male fittings into metal female fitting.
Use brass or copper instead of steel. Some areas steel is commonly used but not here we use steel for gas, not water.

Plastic is soft and can easily crack/split when screwing a metal pipe or male fitting into it. You can put a hose clamp on the outside of the plastic female fitting to give it some added strength.

 

[journeyman]

i would run every thing in sch 80 pvc. and david is right never thread metal into plastic

 

[frodo]

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[gthomson]

I knew I should have finished it off before I asked...
Now I feel obligated to re-do it better.
I only had one more fitting to go!

Thank you for the info - it does make sense, now that I think about it, to not screw a metal into a plastic. And the main piece I don't want to break again is around that T, which would be a lot of work to do again. Best way to not do that - PVC nipple, which will collapse before it will break the T, right?
But not so with a metal nipple.

One of the big box stores around me doesn't seem too stocked up with schedule 80 fittings.
Another might be a little more.
But I see there's a dedicated plumbing supply nearby - a mile or two away - that seems like they might sell to the public.
I'm guessing I can get schedule 80 parts there.
Can I mention company names on here?
Ferguson Plumbing is a mile or two away from me, and I'm in Southern California.
I also see they have stores in Maine - the other side of the US.
So I'm assuming they're a pretty good focused place to go for plumbing supplies beyond what I might get at the local big box DIY store?

Is this a good explanation of what schedule to use?
http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/pvc-pipe-sch-vs-class/

It doesn't sound like I need schedule 80.
But digging up and fixing plumbing isn't what I really want to be doing on my weekends for fun
So if schedule 80 helps keep me from having to work on this specific area for another 10/15/20 years, it's worth it to me to re-do with schedule 80 now while I already have it dug up.
And I think I have an understanding of the parts needed now, also, so it's one trip to the store instead of 4 or 5.

I'm already taking out the metal parts, so may as well go with schedule 80 for the rest while I'm re-doing next weekend?

 

[frodo]

metal was most likly used to protect it from the weed eater.

you can do that a different way..install piping all plastic.

where the pipe comes out of the ground,,sleeve it with a pvc pipe...the weed eater will hit the sleeve instead of the pipe

 

[phishfood]

I don't use Schedule 40 threaded PVC for male or female threads, only Schedule 80. The fittings are many time more expensive, as in 40 cents or so for a Sch 40 male adapter versus $3 or so for a Sch 80. But the piece of mind is priceless.

 

[gthomson]

Re-did it today and with mostly schedule 80.
Left the schedule 40 'T' there since it was glued in - a lot of extra work to replace that one too now, so I figure that's the weakest link on this one. But it all feels pretty solid and I do like the schedule 80 better - does seem much stronger.
Didn't replace the two unions - they're on the side that isn't under constant pressure, and at $7 each, thse were just fine for me. Seems like the O-ring is probably the weaker part of those anyway probably.

Those schedule 80 parts definitely do add up quickly in price, though.
And a bit harder to find.

But my peace of mind is better that I can cover it up and it'll be good for a long while now.

 

[Mr_David]

Looks much better. Nice job