Dishwasher Install

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Merck

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Dec 17, 2014
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Vancouver, BC
Hey all,

I'm pretty new to DIY plumbing and this is a small but good start for me. I've found just getting some of the lingo takes a long time. Still learning the difference between reducers, couplings, m vs f, PEX, Cu pipes, sweating, etc. Good times.

Anyway, this is a small project where I took out our DW and found it was connected to the hot water with 1/2 inch (5/8 OD) copper pipe directly to the DW. I thought this would be a pain for the new one so I cut the pipe under the sink and installed a 1/2 to 3/8 compression fitting and stuck on the braided steel line for the new DW, right after the valve and the copper piece that sticks up and is capped that I assume is for air/water hammering or whatever (pictured). Now here's a couple questions:

1. The pressure is pretty high when I turn the valve back on (blue tap pictured). Is this going to be a problem for the new DW? Should there be some kind of regulator in-line to ensure there is no damage? Or just turn the tap on a little bit?

2. The blue-handled valve needs to be cranked pretty tight to prevent leaks from the hose. It's not an immediate problem but if I wanted to replace it I assume cut where the hot comes up into the cabinet and put a new tee and then separate DW and HW tap valves? Should I switch to PEX if I do that? I'd try sweating on pieces but mostly because it seems like fun and I like fire.

Anyway, that's it for the first foray into home plumbing. Like I told my wife, I'm either about to accomplish something or learn something....

Pipe.jpg
 
pressure and volume are 2 different things. Closing the valve partially only effects the volume. The pressure will equalize on both side of the valve.
You can check the pressure with a gauge on a hose bib. Gauge cost about $10.

WOW. Rarely to hardly never see soldered on stop valves. Normally see threaded on or compression mostly.

I learn new things here all the time
 
1. The pressure is pretty high when I turn the valve back on (blue tap pictured). Is this going to be a problem for the new DW? Should there be some kind of regulator in-line to ensure there is no damage? Or just turn the tap on a little bit?

2. The blue-handled valve needs to be cranked pretty tight to prevent leaks from the hose.

1. No regulator needed. Turn the blue handle valve slowly on all the way. Do not leave the valve partially open.

2. Repair the valve, do not replace. The only parts you will need are a new washer and a reseating tool to stop the valve leak. No need to cut anything.
 
2. Repair the valve, do not replace. The only parts you will need are a new washer and a reseating tool .

Wow I have a reseating tool..........some where.
Don't think I've used that thing in, at the least, about 15 yrs :eek:

maybe even just changing the washer would work.
 
Wow I have a reseating tool..........some where.
Don't think I've used that thing in, at the least, about 15 yrs :eek:

maybe even just changing the washer would work.

If the valve has a non-removable seat (as this one will) I always use the re-seating tool to ensure a good seal and that the new washer does not get torn up right away.
 
Wow thanks for the quick replies guys. This is a great site - learning already. I'm kinda getting into the plumbing thing. I'll try the repair tomorrow. Thank goodness for another HD trip....
 
pressure and volume are 2 different things. Closing the valve partially only effects the volume. The pressure will equalize on both side of the valve.
You can check the pressure with a gauge on a hose bib. Gauge cost about $10.

WOW. Rarely to hardly never see soldered on stop valves. Normally see threaded on or compression mostly.

I learn new things here all the time

Mr David, when I was in Orlando they used sweat stops in the area.
never did understand why. when in Rome

here is a sweat stop, screw stop, and compression LOL
i guess what ever was on the truck at the time?!!

004.jpg
 
Wow Frodo, that electrical box looks safe! Sad thing is it could have been corrected quickly and cheap if the installer cared at all about the quality of their work.
 
I personally prefer the sweet stops over compression. I didn't know they were so rare.

Also...what is this re seating tool?
 
Probably true. But I'm certainly a novice so what would take a pro an hour will take me four. If this works and stops a leak then cool. If not I'll move on to trying to replace.
 
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