CPVC Weld Time?

Plumbing Forums

Help Support Plumbing Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Toxarch

Active Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2011
Messages
38
Reaction score
0
Location
Weatherford, Texas
Edit: Sorry, I mean PVC, not CPVC.

Is there no search function on the forum or did I miss it? I know I am SUPPOSED to wait 24 hours. But I'm going to need a shower before then.

I just replaced a gate valve with a brass ball valve. City water from the road and 3/4" valve in the box. Switches to 2" pipe all the way to the house. The old gate valve was a 2" brass that was a water softener bypass. It started leaking the other day when I used it. So I changed it out with a 1-1/4" ball valve since that is the largest the city will put in at the road (for an extra monthly charge). House was built in 1987 but it looks like someone already replaced this valve once before I moved in in 2000.

Anyway, it's been an hour and I'd love to test the system for leaks now before I NEED the water for a shower later. Only leaks I am worried about are the threaded fittings and the disconnects for the water softener.

All slip connections were primered and glued.
threaded connections were done with teflon tape
60 F temperature outside (in the garage)
very low humidity outside
 
Last edited:
With orange CPVC glue, primer is required. With yellow one step, it isn't, unless local codes require it. My company requires that we use primer with the yellow one step, and claim that since they have instituted that policy, problems with leaks have gone way down.

On to the original question.

1 hour on 2" is pushing it, IMO. 1 hour on 1 1/4" should be OK, as long as you don't have unusually high pressure. Use this information at your own risk, your mileage may vary, etc.
 
Sorry, I got them confused. I am using white SCH 40 PVC, not CPVC. I let it sit for 5 hours. Slowly opened the main valve and then slowly opened the other valves since there's now air in the system. Pressure equalized and no leaks. Now I'll open up some faucets in the house and see if I can purge the air out. Then open the valves to the water heaters and turn the power to those back on. Thanks for the input.
 
Couple of pics for those who like pictures. You can see the couplers from the previous repair by someone else. First couple are the before pics. The bypass is the horizontal pipe.

20140305_135131 (Custom).jpg

20140305_135143 (Custom).jpg

20140306_171238 (Custom).jpg

20140306_171249 (Custom).jpg
 
And today I found a leak in the threads of the valve. Guess I should have used more teflon tape.
What's the best fix other than redoing the whole thing? It's a slow drip. Think some plumber's putty at the threads would stop it?
 
Back
Top