Corroded galvanized nipple on new wh

[jpferg]

I installed a new Rheem wh from Home Depot about 6 weeks ago. I did most of it myself but had a local plumber hard pipe the cold water side. The building inspector came by to inspect and pointed out that there was significant corrosion at the cold water nipple coming out of the wh. The building inspector was not sure what was causing the issue. It looked to me that there was a small leak from where the copper fitting was attached to the nipple. I contacted Rheem and they put new galvanized nipples in the mail.

The plumber came back out and said it was due to it being a cheap Home Depot unit with cheap galvanized nipples and that he believed the water was actually bubbling up from below where the nipple connected to the wh. He said the best course of action would be to get a new unit under warranty since the threads inside the wh itself could be compromised. He believed even if a better material was used that the threads inside the unit itself could be galvanized and a different material nipple could cause an issue.

What sucks is this unit is under the stairs in a condo and is accessed through an opening in a closet just big enough to slide the unit through. Install was a royal pain in the ass. I am trying to avoid pulling this unit at all costs. Does anyone have a strong opinion on what may be causing this and whether another material nipple may help? FYI, I read in multiple places in the manual that applying heat to those connectors can cause permanent damage to different components. I'm pretty sure the plumber did the connections with the copper fitting attached to the nipple.

Pictures are attached for reference. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[voletl]

Yeah I wouldn't be calling that plumber again. If he soldered that fitting while it was attached to the nipple he most likely damage the Plastic. Also it looks like they didn't tighten the female adapter on to the nipple enough and it caused the leak. You can see in your first picture water leaking from the threads that's the cause of corrosion.

 

[jpferg]

I was already suspect of the work. Does anyone have any suggestions as far as the correct fix? Should I try hooking the replacement nipple to the copper with a sharkbite? Should I try a different material nipple?

 

[frodo]

the correct fix


turn off the water
cut the galvinised nipple in half using a hack saw...or what ever you have
unscrew both pieces of the nipple .. discard
go to big ox store buy 1, 3/4''x close '' BRASS nipple
and 1 3/4'' x 1 1/2'' brass nipple
and a 3/4'' dia-electric threaded x threaded union
also get a small can of pipe dope

assemble the parts

 

[jpferg]

the correct fix


turn off the water
cut the galvinised nipple in half using a hack saw...or what ever you have
unscrew both pieces of the nipple .. discard
go to big ox store buy 1, 3/4''x close '' BRASS nipple
and 1 3/4'' x 1 1/2'' brass nipple
and a 3/4'' dia-electric threaded x threaded union
also get a small can of pipe dope

assemble the parts

So the local box stores only carry the first two items. Is this the correct union?
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-00...on-Lead-Free?gclid=CO7AyO_EhNMCFQ-GaQodqHYNgQ
Would the brass nipple to copper be an issue? Also, the connector at the end of the copper pipe is soldered on and can't rotate, so how do I assemble?

Just out of curiosity, would a brass nipple connected to sharkbite connected to the copper work? FYI the hot water side is the factory galvanized nipple with a sharkbite running to the copper and there is no corrosion so far.

 

[frodo]

So the local box stores only carry the first two items. Is this the correct union? yes
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-00...on-Lead-Free?gclid=CO7AyO_EhNMCFQ-GaQodqHYNgQ
Would the brass nipple to copper be an issue? no Also, the connector at the end of the copper pipe is soldered on and can't rotate, so how do I assemble?use the union
CUT the galvinised nipple in half with a hack saw


Just out of curiosity, would a brass nipple connected to sharkbite connected to the copper work? FYI the hot water side is the factory galvanized nipple with a sharkbite running to the copper and there is no corrosion so far.
[COLO[/COLOR]

Then, after you have cut the nipple in half,
unscrew the half of the nipple out of the adabter
AND unscrew the other half from the tank

 

[jpferg]

Then, after you have cut the nipple in half,
unscrew the half of the nipple out of the adabter
AND unscrew the other half from the tank

Yes sir, I understand disassembly. I am trying to figure out how to reassemble without the copper fitting being able to rotate. Won't the nipples coming out of each side of the union need to rotate in opposite directions?

 

[frodo]

a Union



[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vEdaICxZnug"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vEdaICxZnug[/ame]

 

[jpferg]

a Union



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vEdaICxZnug

I didn't realize the union came apart in the middle. That's perfect. Thanks for following up.

 

[havasu]

That guy wiped all the excessive pipe dope on the wall in the video. I'd be pissed if he tried that at my house!

 

[frodo]

That guy wiped all the excessive pipe dope on the wall in the video. I'd be pissed if he tried that at my house!

i chuckled at that, most places, that would get you an ear full
of wtf's !!!
I know a plumber who got fired for a drip of blue cleaner on a kitchen floor

 

[jpferg]

So I got this in:
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0009875-3-4-LF3003-FxF-Dielectric-Union-Lead-Free
It appears the thread pitch is different (finer) on one end. Either than or there is very little thread on the one end. Anyone familiar enough with that DEU to know?

 

[jpferg]

So I finally got around to tackling this today. I sawed the corroded nipple in half and took it out. I was able to confirm that the plastic sleeve in the dielectric fitting had melted and was almost closed off. I concluded that the plumber did in fact solder with the fitting connected to the nipple. I was able to look at the other end of the nipple and see that the threads were intact, giving me confidence the threads inside the water heater were fine and therefore I did not need to exchange the water heater for a new one as suggested by the plumber.

I attempted the repair suggested here using brass and the DEU but I did not have the clearance to fit the pieces together. After some frustration I finally cut the majority of the cold water piping back towards the shut off valve and connected the copper piping to the new dielectric fitting (sent for free by Rheem) using a Shark Bite. No leaks. Hot water side has been set up the same way since day one and hasn't leaked a drop or corroded a bit.

Thanks again for the help. I am going to show the photo to the plumbing company and see if they will refund some or all of my money since their shoddy work had to be cut out to make the unit functional.

 

[havasu]

Wow. Keep us posted on what they say....

 

[frodo]

I just re-read your original post

you can not put a water heater under stairs

what state are you in? different states, different codes

 

[SHEPLMBR]

I just re-read your original post

you can not put a water heater under stairs

what state are you in? different states, different codes

I have seen electric ones in my area in Virginia under stairs

 

[frodo]

I was wrong.
if permitted by other regulations