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ExtraMilePlumbing

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I love using no stop couplings , but some times they are very hard to slide in the pipe and to slide out . Sometimes they are very easy and slide right in . Do you guys know why that is? Is it manufacture problem , not enough sanding, the way I'm cutting the pipe ? Thank you very much for you're help in advance . My favorite way of cutting copper is with. A m18 mini hack saw
 
Could it also possibly be the flux ? Yesterday I used nokorode and the couplings slid right in . Today I used some Homedepo oaty brand . And it was very hard sliding them in today almost impossible if it weren't for a little slag I had
 
when you cut a piece of copper pipe it causes a ridge. this ridge makes it hard to slide fittings on especially with bigger fittings. after you cut your pipe take your cutters and insert the pipe so it is flush against the side of the cutting wheel. tighten the pipe cutter snug the rotate the pipe cutter around the pipe and this will get rid of the ridge.
 
stop cutting to fast, you make the ridge by turning the handle on the cutter to fast.

slow down the pressure you are putting on the pipe and increase the times it goes around

you will not have a ridge.

to resize a copper pipe. use a cresant wrench. adjust the jaws to a good section of pipe.then reform the end of want to put a fitting on


you can also, use a fitting, take a 90, put a short pipe in one side to use as a handle. tap it on the pipe with plyers,,reform your copper
 
or by a pipe sizer, or buy a milwaukee battery pipe cutter. there are many ways to stop making a ridge
 
you can also, use a fitting, take a 90, put a short pipe in one side to use as a handle. tap it on the pipe with plyers,,reform your copper

I like to use a male adapter with a galv cap to round out oval soft copper.

added thought.
When trying to solder on a cap on the bottom side of a vertical pipe, caps sometimes will fall off when you heat them .:mad:

I squeeze the cap a little. Pipe and cap slightly oval now. Then twist the cap 90 degrees. tight fit now. won't fall off.

to slide a no stop coupling on a tight fit, I will sometimes use an adjustable wrench. adjust it down on the pipe and tap the coupling from the end instead of trying to grab the coupling with pliers.
 
LOL....LOL....thats called cheat'n i do it also

we had a copper thief, he would go into houses and cut the copper manifolds off about 2'' above the floor.
if you know soft copper, you know that 2'' above the floor, the copper is oval, not round.
we all learned our own little tricks as to how to reround copper, creseant wrench, flaring block, swedging tool, and fittings tapped onto the copper
what ever it took. you can even put a 1/2 pipe inside a 3/4.


here is a little tool i made to cut pvc below the slab.

331b25be-8a96-4bc7-89b6-dc17cfa83c77_zps39bf3e99.jpg
 
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Thank you guys very much . I love the idea of using an adjustable wrench to slide out the coupling . I will also buy a Milwaukee cuter and crake my time cutting the pipe with less pressure and more revolutions
 
I have started using my M12 bandsaw to cut copper whenever I can fit it into the spot where the copper needs cutting. Super fast, and no ridge either inside or outside.

A good inner/outer reamer will fix the problem as well. This is the one I have.

Ridgid reamer.jpg
 
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LOL....LOL....thats called cheat'n i do it also

we had a copper thief, he would go into houses and cut the copper manifolds off about 2'' above the floor.
if you know soft copper, you know that 2'' above the floor, the copper is oval, not round.
we all learned our own little tricks as to how to reround copper, creseant wrench, flaring block, swedging tool, and fittings tapped onto the copper
what ever it took. you can even put a 1/2 pipe inside a 3/4.


here is a little tool i made to cut pvc below the slab.

That's pretty cool. what kind of sting. the nylon string you use for layout work?
 
all u are doing with the string is melting through the pipe not cutting. or you could use a bare handed hack saw blade. hopefully you are using a champering tool before you glue pvc or abs pipe
 
the whole point of the tool is to save you from digging out a large hole for your hand, what i call wrench room.

it also will cut thru a pipe that is close to over pour concrete, if using a hacksaw blade it needs to stick out the other side of the pipe

it just makes a job easier. there are a wHOLE lotta different ways to cut off a stub up

I have done them all,

hacksaw blade in your hand
saw zall, with bent blade
hot knife using a torch
string
grinder
tell some else to do it

i like the jig, it gives you a square cut across your pipe,
 
sheet metal jig for tub valve layout on fiberglass tubs

use a piece of sheetmetal. make a center mark on the bottom.
set it on the apron of the tub, with center mark over the waste/overflow hole

mark the sheet metal for a single handle and 3 handle valve. drill the holes with small bit

now all you have to do ti mark your holes is lay the templet on the tub apron, pencil the hole for spout and handles

saves you a few minutes each day, also, helper can drill tub with out you double checking hole lay out

spout and valve with consistent spread
 
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