CI to PVC Optimal Solution

[sirKJV]

I took out an old rusted ceramic sink in a house I just bought and I'm attempting to put in a new utility sink. I took out the piping back to the cast iron portion. I have attached pictures for the situation I am facing.

I bought a no-hub connector for 1 1/2" CI to 1 1/2" PVC thinking it would be the easiest solution. For whatever reason (see picture) the connector has a lot of room around the 1 1/2" cast iron. That side is noticeably bigger while the PVC side seems to fit more snug around the 1 1/2" PVC pipe. What am I missing? Is this OK and I should just tighten the band and it will take care of any space?

Additional questions:
Would you use this cast iron piece even though the end is pretty rusted? Is there a best way to remove the rust and keep using it? I read that removing cast iron piping is extremely hard so I was hoping to avoid that.

In the picture you can also see the type of plastic cap that was used previously to connect to PVC. Would using this type of connector again instead of the connector I have be appropriate or is it not code?

 

[Matt30]

That's not cast iron, it's galvanized steel

 

[sirKJV]

I should have realized that - thank you for the observation.

Just curious if you were able to tell that from the small amount of steel showing in the first picture or if there's another way? I'm wondering if all of this piping is galvanized steel or if it stops before the main drain line? I'm also wondering if the previous owners painted over everything to cover this up, because everything seemed freshly painted.

Any advice on my questions in the first post is still appreciated. I tried reading up on galvanized steel to PVC and I think I can just use a 1 1/2" PVC to 1 1/2" PVC no-hub connector? I also read I might be able to use a galvanized steel hub and fit threaded PVC pipe into it.

Last question - can galvanized steel still be within code in some areas for drain pipe or is it always non-compliant now?

 

[frodo]

you need a proflex

proflex 3000-150 1-1/2" CI, PL or ST to 1-1/2" CI, PL, or ST or CP-150 mission equivelent

cut the thread off of the pipe, clean the paint off,,

 

[plumberscott]

Gal to pvc you can use a regular no hub coupling, both outside diameters are the same

 

[Mr_David]

Just curious if you were able to tell that from the small amount of steel showing in the first picture or if there's another way? I'm wondering if all of this piping is galvanized steel or if it stops before the main drain line? I

Threaded pipe is the key. cast iron pipe is NOT threaded. the hubs on the larger pipe are lead and oakum joints. Those are cast iron.

Modern cast iron pipe and fittings are joined together with NO-hub coupling.
They no long use lead/oakum joints.

I have never seen 1-1/2" cast iron pipe. 1-1/2" is going to be galvanized steel

 

[sirKJV]

TY Mr_David for that - good to know!

 

[frodo]

Threaded pipe is the key. cast iron pipe is NOT threaded. the hubs on the larger pipe are lead and oakum joints. Those are cast iron.

Modern cast iron pipe and fittings are joined together with NO-hub coupling.
They no long use lead/oakum joints.

I have never seen 1-1/2" cast iron pipe. 1-1/2" is going to be galvanized steel

they make 1.5 cast..i have seen it but never used it. i heard the snap cutters crush it, you have to use a chop saw

 

[phishfood]

I had to use a decent amount of 1 1/2" cast iron pipe on a custom home some years back. It was poured in place concrete floors with post tension cables. We had the elevated slabs radar scanned to locate the cables before we core drilled. A couple of the lavatory sinks, the biggest hole we could fit between the cables was 2", and the ceilings below and above were return air plenums, so PVC was not an option.

We had some delays getting pipe and fittings, not very much 1 1/2" cast in stock anywhere.

 

[Mr_David]

I had to use a decent amount of 1 1/2" cast iron pipe on a custom home some years back. It was poured in place concrete floors with post tension cables. We had the elevated slabs radar scanned to locate the cables before we core drilled. A couple of the lavatory sinks, the biggest hole we could fit between the cables was 2", and the ceilings below and above were return air plenums, so PVC was not an option.

We had some delays getting pipe and fittings, not very much 1 1/2" cast in stock anywhere.

New house. Seems like poor planning by the Architect.

The post tension cables where that close together?

 

[frodo]

New house. Seems like poor planning by the Architect.

The post tension cables where that close together?

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFXz4nWwvrY"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFXz4nWwvrY[/ame]

 

[phishfood]

New house. Seems like poor planning by the Architect.

The post tension cables where that close together?

It had originally been designed and poured to be a high end condo building, 6 units over top of a parking garage for the tenants. The developer went under, and the final owner who bought the property turned it into offices for his construction and development company on the first floor, future mixed use on the second floor, and his home on the third floor. The original build had been laid out and knockout/crete sleeves had been put in where necessary to accommodate the plumbing, AC, and electrical for the original intent.