Black Steel/Boiler question

[Skip_Johnson]

Hey yinz, first time poster. So I just recently installed a new 105k btu Crown Aruba boiler in my house and repiped the whole system too primarily to get as much headspace freed up as possible on my basement for an upcoming bathroom and laundry room. I did all the lines in black steel from start to end b/c I have all the equipment to do so, it's cheaper than copper, and I think it's thicker gauge allows for a longer lifespan. Just my opinion,I know a lot of guys adamantly go with copper but whatever. The issue in question though is that three of the 2 inch fittings have a slow drip leak and I thought it might be b/c I used 24 inch wrenches on them- should larger wrenches be used? Also- my 3/4 inch threader was consistently breaking a couple of the threads each time I used it- time for a new die?

 

[frodo]

Wey,

here is the deal with using screw pipe on heating systems

the pipe gets hot and cools down daily. causeing the pipes to expand and contract

causing the pipes to leak when they cool, and stop leaking when the heat up

THAT is why screw pipe is not used in hvac. except weld pipe. whatever

if your joints are leaking, its because you
A.. used your purse to tighten them up, Nancy
B.. did not use enough pipe dope
C.. did not thread the pipe correctly
D... did not oil correctly
I suspect your dies are wore out, and you are not using enough oil on the die,
how many threads are you installing on the pipe?

to answer your OP a 24 is just right for 2"

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/npt-national-pipe-taper-threads-d_750.html

 

[Skip_Johnson]

Hi Frodo, thanks for the response.

I'll be sure to upgrade my purse strap the next time I'm at the Gap.

I understand your point about the pipe's response to changes in temperature but any leaks will be easily caught and corrected once the lines are in place. Once that first round of correction is done I still think that the durability and longevity of that material will outlast anything else. In Philly hot water heat is still king and all of these houses still use their original lines (75+ years old!) except where a new boiler was patched in.

Around here the general consensus I've picked up on is that copper is preferred only because it's easier and quicker to work with. And that's awesome- don't get me wrong, I use it if someone else is paying for it and prefers it. But I don't think that you can get more than 20-25 years before it starts to corrode and fail at the site of any isolation valves mostly- maybe adapters too. And also, around here at least, both are code-worthy.

As far as the threading issue I've never actually counted it but always just thread my pipes until they just begin to come through the other side of the die and protrude out of the tool. I checked that graph and compared it- it's about spot on. I'm pretty sure my dies are shot I just wanted a second opinion because they're not super cheap to replace.

Oh, and as far as the dope issue- I ran out of rectorseal partway through and got a teflon-based dope that my supply house carries. Seemed real runny and diluted. Can't remember the brand but I won't be getting it again.

I don't know, I'm not trying to be crazy or jerky, just trying to ultimately figure out the most reliable, long lasting outcome.

 

[frodo]

a far as hand bags goes i prefer a vallerie suede by kooba matches my work boots

you said that your 3/4 threads are breaking threads , that is a "not enough oil" condition, that turns into a brok'n die quick

if you are not constantly oiling the die and pipe, that is your problem. could very well be what is wrong with the 2"

a 24" pipe wrench is spot on for 2" pipe, if tight, should not leak. are you using mallable or cast fittings?

as far as copper vs steel pipe

it your house, your choice

do you know how to change out dies and reset debth?

switch out dies, leave loose, thread a factory threaded nipple into die, tighten down


>>>>>>>>>>by constantly i mean full flow of oil during the whole processs. >>>>>>

ck your dope, some is runny, you gotta mix it up. stiff on the bottom oil on the top

nothing wrong with recto seal or teflon both good stuff.

when you install brass or coppr valves , fittings you need to use die-lectric nipples, or the joint will rust out in 2-3 years