Bathroom vanity faucet removal

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darkmatter

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I'm trying to remove one of the water levers from our sink/vanity and what I'm finding under the counter is a peculiar washer that is recessed into the counter.

Here are a couple of pics of what it looks like:

SDC10576.JPG

SDC10577.JPG

SDC10581.JPG


Can anyone tell me what kind of wrench/tool will allow me to remove that washer that's inset?

Thanks!
 
One of these might fit. These can be found and most hardware and tool stores.
Undo the water. pull off the clip and the plastic hose fittinf will slide off and out of the way. Or you can try a really long set of needle nose pliers.

tools.jpg
 
Superior Tool 6-Piece Premium Shower Valve Socket Wrench Set (from the tool selection at Lowe's.)
 
It's a really tight space but might be able to. Still, with the sink right there it makes for very few options.
 
Once you pull the c-clip and remove the excess plumbing, you should be able to turn the upper portion of the faucet counter-clockwise, and the nut should loosen enough to just hold it steady with you fingers as it unscrews out the top.
 
Once you pull the c-clip and remove the excess plumbing, you should be able to turn the upper portion of the faucet counter-clockwise, and the nut should loosen enough to just hold it steady with you fingers as it unscrews out the top.

Tried that... The faucet would not budge at all, it's on there tighter than a Vegas slot machine :)
 
I'm certain the faucet had a specific installation tool, which you might be able to find. Absent this tool, you could always fab one up by using a 6" long galvanized nipple, which fits over the circumference of the faucet, with the tip cut out to match the existing notches under the faucet. I did a similar fab on a deep water valve shut off, which was about 5' deep, and worked great.
 
Thank you. The reason why I'm needing to remove the faucet (hot side) is because there is rust between the plastic washer and the coutertop itself. I think it's what's causing the tightness because the other side can easily be unscrewed. I tried tapping on the brass washer and it won't budge... leaving a good dent in one of the notches :(

Right now I'm soaking the rusty area in CLR to see if it dissolves enough to loosen it up.
 
CLR is OK to remove calcium but I would recommend getting a can of PB Blaster (penetrating oil) which is usually in our jeep tool boxes. This stuff is fantastic!
 
CLR is OK to remove calcium but I would recommend getting a can of PB Blaster (penetrating oil) which is usually in our jeep tool boxes. This stuff is fantastic!

Want to be careful with that PB blaster. it will damage some surfaces.
 
Yeah the CLR ate up some of the finish on the countertop around the faucet... bummer. Just made it rough, no real discoloration.
 
What make faucet is it? From what I see in your pictures I think the faucet can be removed by removing the handle an the trim piece on top of the sink. There should be a nut under that. Then the stem will drop down through the top.

John
 
I think it's a Price Pfister. The top flange is not adjustable like the old style PP widespread. That's so when you set them the height is correct for the trim.
 
There's no rust on the bottom, it all looks clean. I think that when the hat side of the faucet was installed it wasn't tightened correctly, leaving a gap between the plastic washer and the hardware itself, above the counter. What I don't get is why it would rust??

I've applied the CLR and it didn't help at all. Still tight and can't loosen. I'll try and post some pics of the top.
 
You can cut the top flange with a drimmel tool or drill it so you can split it and remove the flange and the valve will drop through.

pp wide spread.JPG
 
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