Tool to wash out distal part of toilet trap?

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pasadena_commut

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Last week I finally got around to soaking our toilets with some muriatic acid (diluted about 1:3 in water, estimated) to remove all the hard water deposits stuck in the bottom and also in the main jet line. (They had previously each been cleaned with two bottles lime-a-way toilet cleaner, which made them mostly clean, except for the toughest deposits.) I did this by removing about 4/3 quarts of water, taping up all the rim holes with painters tape, then putting in that same volume of muriatic acid through a long funnel underneath the flap, directly into the top of the toilet bowl opening below, cover the top with saran wrap. This put the fluid level back up to the original water line. A couple of hours later, and after a tiny bit of scrubbing with a plastic toilet brush, and the toilets are now clean everywhere I can see. One of them flushes very well, the other is still a little slow, it looks like the flow in the big jet hole on the bottom is still a little slow. I'm going to run a wire up past the water line to see if that helps any. All the rim holes are clear.

Anyway, the other possibility is that there is enough build up from above the water line and up and over in the trap that it is slowing the exit. Is there some sort of spray tool one could attach to a hose (or bit of tubing) to thread that up into and through the trap to blast that area a bit to clean it? This is not a clog per se - a toilet auger goes in and out without resistance.

Note, safety equipment was a 3M half mask with acid filters and eye protection.

For your amusement...

Before flushing the acid it was diluted with baking soda (from a 5 lb container from Smart and Final, which was the cheapest in my area.) When this is added it reacts violently releasing tons of CO2 which forms bubbles. Added just a little at a time (around 1/3 of a cup) to avoid bubbling over. On one toilet those bubbles would collapse rapidly on their own and then more could be added. So the fluid was neutralized in about 10 minutes and could be flushed. But in the other toilet there was some detergent like material present, and the bubbles persisted for a ridiculously long time. I had to keep poking them with the toilet brush to pop them to get the foam down enough to add more baking soda. It took a little more than an hour to neutralize that one. Two people use one toilet, and two other people the other. My best guess is that I am at fault, since mine was the foamy one, and due to a gut condition I have to consume about 1/2 a tablespoon of Miralax a day. Miralax stabilizes the bubbles in the glass when I wash it out after drinking the stuff. Anyway, I was surprised by this, since the toilets appeared to be pretty clean to start with.
 
There is something similar to you wire trick the sell at most hardware store it's a plastic price about 18" long with ridges on it it's used to clear bathroom sink pop up assemblies mostly but may work for your situation
 
I'm familiar with those tools. The thing is, they are mostly for pulling hair clots out of sink drains. I don't think they would do much to the sorts of deposits which might be stuck to the porcelain. I was hoping that a reasonably high power spray might at least dislodge any "soft" accumulations on the far part of the trap.

I have previously cleaned out the lower part of the main jet hole with a bit of wire, but it only extended about 4" up the tube. Perhaps I will shove the boroscope camera up there, it should show if it is blocked or not, and I think that tube is reasonably straight so it should be able to reach up to the rim. Conversely, I don't think I could get the camera around the turn in the trap (facing towards the sewer) to view the bottom part of the trap.
 
For what it's worth, just last Friday I got tired of one of our toilets taking 2 or 3 flushes at times due to what I perceived as low flow through that "jet hole". It has been getting worse for several years. Initially holding the handle down through the flush cycle would result in a good flush, but over the years it took more flushes. After installing the replacement toilet, I broke the porcelain to see what the issue was. I found a penny about 75% thinner than normal, and a bobby pin crusted in calcium, stuck in layers and layers of calcium and other mineral deposits. The only way that could have been cleaned was with a hammer and chisel. I'm guessing this all started like 30 years ago when the kids were still around.
 
I commiserate with your situation. I kept one of my old Toto WCs looking good using muriatic acid for decades but finally decided to throw in the towel.
I agree that likely the distal (good word !) part of trapway has mineral build up but, not likely you can clear it satisfactorily.
If/when replacing, seriously consider a 'right height' toilet if you have normal size adults as primary users. Even my 5'4" spouse likes the higher toilet.
Toto Entrada at about $180 is still about the cheapest name brand that fits the bill. H.D. carries the Am. Std. Cadet3 FlowWise that can sometimes be found for $180. (throw away Am. Std. cheap seat and plain steel bolt set).
To top it off, they are all 1.28 GPF so you will probably save some water in the process.
 
There is good flow through the big jet hole. After donning some rubber gloves I put my thumb over that outlet and flushed - there was quite a bit of force from the water flowing out. Maybe it could be better, but that should be enough to push water through to the outlet on the other side. I also felt around as far into the trap as my fingers would go, and it was mostly smooth. There were a couple of spots with thin deposits still sticking to the walls. Even after two hours in somewhat diluted muriatic acid. Seems likely that further up and over the top there might be substantially more material, perhaps enough to slow the flow. The boroscope I have feels like it is too stiff to maneuver over the top of the bend, so no way to look and see yet. Not going to pull the toilet to fix this though, if it comes off, a new one goes on,
 

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