Best Way To Remove Latex and Silicone Caulk from Sinks and Tubs

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skeezix

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I have four bathrooms and one kitchen that need caulk replacement. What is the best way to remove latex and silicone caulk from sinks and tubs? Is it...
  1. Razor blade scraper to remove the caulk?
  2. What is the best way to remove the caulk that's below the razor edge and in the joint?
  3. Heat gun to soften and remove the caulk?
  4. Use some chemical caulk remover like 3M??
 
I use a razor knife, carpet knife, sharp stiff putty knife, pull scraper, flat screwdriver, old dull chisel, scotchbrite pad soaked in rubbing alcohol.
 
I didn't know one could use rubbing alcohol to loosen and remove old caulk. Hope you don't mind confirming that...
Sure would beat waiting hours and hours for caulk remover to loosen the caulk, and then wait some more hours to get more stuff out...
 
I don’t use rubbing alcohol to loosen or remove old caulk.

After I have painstakingly and mechanically removed all visible caulk, which takes a long time if done properly, there are still traces of caulk film or tiny bits here and there.

An aggressive scotchbrite pad soaked in strong rubbing alcohol will soften and then rub off these last traces of caulk, and also remove soap film and mildew.
I find the green pads work best.

Sometimes they leak some green color, so I go back again with clean paper towels dampened with more alcohol.

You can search on Google for plenty of evidence that denatured alcohol will soften caulk.

Some folks like to use mineral spirits, vinegar, or other solvents, I stick with rubbing alcohol.
It dries pretty fast, and does not leave any film that needs to be cleaned up.

I do occasionally use caulk remover, when there is a bathtub with multiple massive wide sloppy layers of ancient hardened caulk.

I am pretty much done with doing recaulking jobs, do to bad arthritis.
But when I do them, I get nutty and do it my way.
Totally cleaning off all old caulk, then putting a fan in the tub or shower overnight, because there is always some water trapped in the joint.
And for really dirty or moldy issues I final clean with Tilex, then rinse with plain water.

Then come back to apply new caulk the next day.
 
I don’t use rubbing alcohol to loosen or remove old caulk.

After I have painstakingly and mechanically removed all visible caulk, which takes a long time if done properly, there are still traces of caulk film or tiny bits here and there.

An aggressive scotchbrite pad soaked in strong rubbing alcohol will soften and then rub off these last traces of caulk, and also remove soap film and mildew.
I find the green pads work best.

Sometimes they leak some green color, so I go back again with clean paper towels dampened with more alcohol.

You can search on Google for plenty of evidence that denatured alcohol will soften caulk.

Some folks like to use mineral spirits, vinegar, or other solvents, I stick with rubbing alcohol.
It dries pretty fast, and does not leave any film that needs to be cleaned up.

I do occasionally use caulk remover, when there is a bathtub with multiple massive wide sloppy layers of ancient hardened caulk.

I am pretty much done with doing recaulking jobs, do to bad arthritis.
But when I do them, I get nutty and do it my way.
Totally cleaning off all old caulk, then putting a fan in the tub or shower overnight, because there is always some water trapped in the joint.
And for really dirty or moldy issues I final clean with Tilex, then rinse with plain water.

Then come back to apply new caulk the next day.

This post is accurate. I’m sure you get great results. 👍
 
Ventilate well and extinguish all ignition sources! Thanks for posting. May be needing this soon.
 
Ventilate well and extinguish all ignition sources! Thanks for posting. May be needing this soon.
Working for people it’s a pain in the butt with anything that smells. They complain about the curing silicone. Plus the cost of having it done. You ever work for the general public ? It’s wild 🤣

I’d have homeowners walking in the bathroom smoking 🤣🤷‍♂️

I had one last week walk in talking about how bad he felt, no mask right over my shoulder. Kinda crazy the things people do.

I’d certainly use the remover if I ever have a project like that at my home, or I’d recommend it to someone else since Mitchell’s used it.
 
Ventilate well and extinguish all ignition sources! Thanks for posting. May be needing this soon.

It's not that bad in terms of smell. Certainly compared with so many other products used by the trades for painting, cleaning, sealing and what have you. PVC primer? Solvent? Yeah, like that. So, yes ventilation is good for this and many other products. Yes, it is flammable, as are so many other products used by the trades. If you tend to work with a cigarette hanging out of your mouth, perhaps a change to your work habits is in order. Don't try to clean silicone off of anything while your partner is using an acetylene B-tank to solder up some copper a few inches away. In other words, normal precautions and common sense.

If you don't want any flammable products there's another one I've tried: Silicone Sealant Remover - PROSOCO Dicone NC9 Using either of these silicone digesters requires a sharp razor, rags, and elbow grease with a lot of rubbing and scraping being careful not to scratch the glass. The absolute last thing you want on tempered glass is a scratch.

But just like the "new wave" low-VOC scentless mineral spirits used by painters for alkyd paint cleanup,, it doesn't do nearly as quick a job. Notice I didn't say good; it just takes a bit more effort.

When my shower glass company came and re-installed the old panels, they were astounded at how good a job I did on the silicone removal; better than they'd ever seen and better than they could do, they said. They had never heard of a "silicone digester" or solvent. Having the "old" glass completely free--and I mean completely--of OLD silicone ensured that the NEW silicone would look and perform to the best of its abilities.
 
Apologies for being short instead of clear: the LEL (lower explosion limit) for that type of solvent is usually low, like 1 - 2% in air. Many times plumbing is done in an enclosed environment, sometimes a closet or bathroom. You will reach the LEL quickly from only a few drops, while beside you may be something like a pilot light. Some products are worse for health, like chlorinated solvents, so in general, any solvent should be well-ventilated.

The reason for low VOC products is more for the homeowner. Volatiles, particularly the ones that are released slowly and continuously, are recirculated in an HVAC system iand is part of the air that is breathed, particularly in homes that are designed for energy efficiency (air leak prevention.). At a point when you can't smell it, it is still in the home environment. Lungs become the filters for indoor air.

This sounds like the right tool for the job, with appropriate awareness.
 
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If you tend to work with a cigarette hanging out of your mouth, perhaps a change to your work habits is in order.
That reminds me of back when my son was kart racing. Another one of the regulars was refueling his kid's kart, while the kid is still sitting in it. The fuel tank is under the steering wheel, right between the kid's legs. Super Dad, who's a professional and can't be bothered to use a funnel, is sloshing gasoline all over his kid's legs with more of it pooling on the floor pan under the kid's seat. The whole time Super Dad, not the least bit concerned, has a lit cigarette hanging from his lips!! Brilliant. Yikes.
 
I’ve walked into houses and the customer is sitting there on an oxygen machine smoking a cigarette.

You name it and I’ve probably seen it in a customers house.

I’ve found almost everything but a dead body, but I haven’t retired yet......

Don’t put anything past a human, they’ll do anything.
 
I think that DS20-25 is a little much for my use. I googled it and it appears to be an industrial solution, probably not available in small (12 oz) quantities. At least I couldn't find it at the box stores. So I'll just go with what's available at the box stores, along with a couple of old but sharp tools that I have, and use a lot of elbow grease. And alcohol for the final clean-up.
 
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